ecolojim

maybe we shouldnt live... just in case we might die?

whoops, i deleted my post cos i edited and started rambling on big style, didnt realise anyone had replied its actually a good thing that you're taking an interest in the safety advances. you will soon learn though, that low kickback chains sap productivity, rear chainbrakes are a solution looking for a problem IMO. if the saw is being used properly then theres no need for them at all, and the last thing we need is them becoming mandatory. thats a pretty balanced opinion youve got there. I like it. dont get caught up with the holier than thou crowd round here, its getting long in the tooth. be concerned with your own safety and that of everyone around you on the job site, particularly the public. to be overly concerned with what everyone else is doing seems to make one bitter. my favourite safety addition is heated handles. next saw i buy will have them!

because theyre very very expensive. to me anyway. Ive always seen whether I could make something cheaper than buying it. I dont have much disposable income. I dont 'need' one. itd just be a nice thing to have. Im not self employed so dont have or need a bigger chipper.

I looked at these a short while ago and was quite inspired. I really liked the idea of having a small drum chipper for smaller jobs on the farm. anything over 4 inches or so we keep for firewood anyway. how possible would it be to DIY build one? is there anything already built that would be a suitable start point? I suppose an old trailed forage harvester would almost do the job straight off, but not many come up and not for sensible money.

I do in my own saws, especially when working by water courses canola (rapeseed) oil has a particular affinity to metallic surfaces, which helps. you do get through it quicker than normal horrible bar oil, but its cheaper, better for the environment and Its not quite so horrific if you get a bit on you keeps my bar nice and cool too. never had any problems, and there are lots of other people telling the same story

"the new right of access on foot only applies to mapped areas of "open country" as defined by the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000(CRoW). This is currently mountain, moor, heath land, down land and registered common land." as landowners I find we have to be able to quote things back Dean. theres one for next time

I cant believe Im saying this but that is one fantastic looking pulley! N.B seems the flame cut outs did the trick:blushing:

the EDT6 goes from 100rpm to 30,000rpm on 2 or 4 stroke engines the EDT5 goes from 100 to 19,000 but im not sure on whether it's 2 stroke only both aparently work wirelessly or can be connected in some way or other by a wire. the batteries are soldered inside and the case sealed but should last for years if you keep them away from running engines when stored (they 'wake up' when they sense the induction)

for very occasional use and to look good the rest of the time, I would recommend the goodwinch TDS goldfish. fantastic winch, better than the equivalent warn and superwinch, yet cheaper, and far more waterproof. even more budget and still solid, good enough for occasional useage, champion (winchsolutions.co.uk) the TDS is also on winch solutions but its not the waterproofed goldfish version which is on the goodwinch website at no extra cost

I cant believe panties are getting in a twist yet again! Im feeling a certain 'Im right so nobody else can be' vibe and its not condusive to a happy home. Group Hug! anyway. personally, looking at it from a physics and common sense POV since I dont have the arb pedigree of you guys, there is a prospective hazard and a prospective target. one or both need to be mitigated. if the path (target) cannot be, then the 'prospective' hazard must be. options already mentioned are reduction, removal or visible means of support (of varying kinds) I certainly cant see why reduction and bracing cant be utilised together, as bracing cannot reduce or control torsional stresses through the limb. the bracing only takes weight in one plane. position of the brace on the hazard limb in relation to the limb's vertical attitude will also be crucial. for example a mature or older ceder of lebanon with a branch of almost perfectly horizontal plane, if braced somewhere in the region of its centre of balance, will remove almost all loading at the trunk union mitigating its failure, whereas adding it at points of great imbalance only serves to create a fulcrum point about which loads and forces have changed somewhat. This could be a positive or a negative effect. This branch appears to go almost straight upward. any 'bracing' would therefore logically need to go towards the upper end and be more 'fall arrest' than support. If the angles at any point between bracing points and length of free 'cord/wire/boa/whatever' between those points plus any elongation suggests that upon failure, any part of the limb could or would get within x distance of the ground, then I would certainly consider removing the limb altogether. however, the removal of the limb would be foolhardy if the crack can be inspected and deemed not to fail. there is the added point of the tree's location adding a certain extra weighting to its risk and fate. IMO lives are worth more than trees, and what method of hazard mitigation at this stage is pretty academic. the first thing HAS to be a full assessment of the defect.

ive heard of that too, cant remember which establishment, and probably wouldnt say if i could remember but top 1 or 2 out of each year offered instructor places.

or left

as you face the house from the road for me, however, if the instruction is given when at the back of the house, it could easily seem to mean the other side. either way, whoops!

yeah i do and it does wind me up sometimes. I seem to have good days and bad days for it. however, I found that the timberland ones, the grippy surfaces on them just werent grippy at all, and I ended up having to grip much harder and felt like I was expending much more energy climbing

i find it interesting the mixed reports on them. I couldnt grip in them, the stitching was going in no time, and ended up resigning them and using builders gloves. many have said the same, but there are those who get on really well with them. however... considering using them again as the temp drops.

we had one demonstrated but we didnt have sufficient time to try it ourselves. theres a lot to take in over the four days as it is. we all know that the practicing and honing of our techniques takes place after the course! Jim called it a crash rescue. he put up an access line, footlocked up it doubled with a klemheist sling. installed a false anchor point on the doubled line, clipped himself to the casualty, and dropped them both straight to the ground stopping just above it. the whole thing was over in seconds. THAT's the kinda guy you want on your team if the proverbial hit the fan!

not intellectually stimulating enough for them i reckon excuse me while i go bash a landrover with a big hammer until it works again

perhaps you should familiarise yourself with the more negative outcomes of chainsaw useage... the accidents and fatalities. maybe then you'll think twice. no fear or caution of them at all, even if you arent cocky or complacent now, will almost certainly develop into complacency.

you shouldnt have any fear, fear will make you nervous and may make you have mistakes. a chainsaw needs to be handled and used with confidence, confidence but not complacency! respect is what you need ultimately! I was told not to fear it, to be wary of it in my opinion of course

from what I understand, we can pretty much ignore scaffolding since trees are dynamic and as such we would never use scaffolding, and then the added point that scaffolding would add other hazards. to a point, the first part is common sense, can it be done from the ground... in our case that is can the tree be straight felled? or in cases such as a crown lift on a small-medium specimen, can a pole saw, powered or otherwise, be used from the ground. this all in my opinion is one problem with one big set of rules having to cater for multiple unrelated industries. what remains, is that no matter how many 'tree companies' seem to be sprouting up, we are still a minority industry. In my opinion we have a few dedicated individuals to thank for the few pieces of specific legislation that we have. perhaps the rest will come in time

agreed, there are going to be times when the extra communication link between two persons may slow the job down, but two operators who know their job well im sure can also make for a more fluent operation. ps. mewps may well come under puwer as well! just to make it more complicated for us.

ms260 with a 15inch bar and chain would be the perfect saw for what you're about to do. I did mine with a 290 which I was more than fed up of lugging about all day every day by the end of the course and promptly bought my 260. it cuts faster than the 290, weighs significantly less, and is a very versatile saw.

comes under loler as do cranes, forklifts, workshop hoists, tail-lifts, stairlifts and bath lifts in old peoples homes and hospitals, anything that lifts or lowers objects and particularly people thats what the chap that loler'd our teleporter told me, he'd done a dockside crane before it and was on his way to loler the stairlifts and bath lifts in a home afterwards

I was told on my 38 course that we have to justify not using one these days, and justify it properly. thanks to work at height covering so many different industries we have to go through... 1. can it be done from the ground? 2. from fixed raised platform (scaffolding)? 3. MEWP? 4. rope and harness last resort thankfully ladders dont come into it. as for justification, aparently cost and lack of trained operators are not sufficient. access, terrain, and actual job (having to gain access to inner crown) are good enough reasons not to use one. fairly barking

Nuggsy mate, I think the best bit of advice I can give you is get yerself down to the local bookshop or even amazon and buy yourself the paperback (cheaper) version of the Collins Tree Guide!! Its got all the info you seek and much more, especially for ID purposes