PeteB

Fizz having a kip through the thunderstorm, big dog Woody (GSD) goes mental at thunder!

Blame the French health and safety! As well as the stop buttons and the push stick, they were trying to get hand feeding banned at one point! This is about the only time a 'Standard' has been binned before the replacement has been agreed, written up and implemented!

Standard fit on all machines going to France, and standard fit to Bandit supplied here too I seem to recall. We make ours, paint them red and slot them in a holder!

Can France still supply the 230 with a 35hp diesel? Did a UK dealer bring these out to you?

As long as we have stocks and within the time frame. I'm not sure how the timeframe is extended by though.

Not at the moment, the QuadChip is still in production but with either the 25hp diesel or the 37hp EFI petrol.

Sorry, crap at diets and losing weight myself! Put on some 4 stone in 20 years! Booze, meat, carbs etc....changing shape is easy with tasty food and unhealthy lifestyle, losing it is bloody hard work! Ordinarily, if you like something, it is either immoral, illegal or unhealthy! I've stuck to the later!

We binned the spare wheel, the adjustable A frame, used a narrower axle, slightly changed the infeed, 50B grade steel sheet, binned the sound deadening bonnet liner, lightened the flywheel to suit the petrol torque/hp, binned the folding discharge chute and stand, binned the covers over the rear lights.....Everything was scrutinised so that with fluids and reasonable amount of fuel, it was on the zone! The chip chamber, roller box etc is still the same as the Evo165 diesel and Limited Edition 45hp unit.

Patch it locally. Generate a relationship with a local partisan and they will be glad to help!

Three in the house at times now. Woody (big dog), Fizz (Jack Russell) and Roo (Norfolk Terrier).

I did get told that the blades are so similar that it is uncanny, but, the blade angle had been increased. This angle change significantly increases the loads that it is asked to take and parring off a bigger bite means that it will fold quicker than a Jensen blade.

Every make has its 'haters', it has always been the case. Now, they can go public. And as you say, some have no experience either! Mother always said, 'if you got nowt good to say, then shut up!'. Or 'better to say nowt and appear to be stupid, than open yer gob and have it confirmed beyond all doubt!'.

We say copper slip as an anti corrosion/stick stuff on our CS100 blade bolts. In this instance, the bolt is counted as a stud rather than a bolt so you are okay using it. We found that a heavier torque load achieved little but was a PITA occasionally, trying to get the torx drives out, especially when they weren't scrupulously clean or had stuck I with corrosion! But always check the manual or consult the supplier with any kit if you ain't sure!!!

Call me on 07774 282481, there are a couple of options and different prices. Cheers.

I'd be inclined to say that it could well be gear oil or EP90, and it may have a level in the centre. Remove the bolt or cap head in the centre and with it on level ground, it should just start to dribble out. But, as another poster said, go to TH White, the importer and ask their service department to confirm at that gearbox will be expensive if you bust it. Re checking the picture, it may even be the fixing in the centre of the lower casting. EP90 stinks and is quite viscous so that may be enough to get pulling and transferred around the inside of the box.

I saw this and thought, what about heritage or primarily display trucks, what about stuff classed as special vehicles, cranes etc?

I know Leicester has a very capable bearing, belt and gear supplier. I bet there is on (or more) in every large town or city. Take it in and get their advice, they may be able to help with a straight swap or an alternative. Or wait for the Hyundai spare parts people to get something from China again....

Sorry I was auto corrected.

We use copper slip on CS100 blade torch bolts.

Thanks for the heads up and clarification. Tbh, I'll still use copper grease myself..... Back to the OP, the bolts are in situ and still tight, 'nothing other than timber went through' but they bust and someone is quoting an inordinate amount of money for two bearings and a mornings work. What caused the failure he asked.....

I got admit, I rarely changed the bolts or nylocs on my two GreenMech or Arboreater units back in the day, 150nm was tight enough! I over sharpened (depth wise) a couple of the Arboreater blades and they let go and made a mess, I just learned not to grind them back too close to the bolt holes. I never had a problem with the GM kit. Having worked for GM for a bit, I've only seen or heard of a couple of instances of blade/bolt bother. I think the copper slip thing is bunkum myself. A split or belleville washer may increase the torque value but I truly doubt that copper slip would. My opinion only and please correct me if I'm wrong. A true engineer to aircraft standards may change the fixings at every turn, on less critical items, punch a dot on each nut face then bin after 6 uses. A Ag engineer would use it until he could do the nyloc up by hand, but even so, FT is FT. According to the OP, the bolts are still good, it would be interesting to see the bolt holes etc to see if a crack runs outwards. At first glance, the blade has folded. An experienced user told me that the blade angle is too keen, thus leverage comes into play. While he had these units, he experienced failures that got expensive so turned the infeed speed down- this effectively reduced the performance but greatly reduced the chance of a blade folding. The models of chipper that incorporate a hydraulic tank as part of the wrap can experience significant damage which could result in massive oil loss, damage and cost if the blade punctures that and badgers the chassis too. Maintenance is critical, make time for it before it makes the time necessary and expensive.

Is yours the ex - Cleartrack 550 with the whisper cut blades? If it is, they used to bust with monotonous regularity accord to a contact. I once started to watch a blade change and as soon as he opened the chamber, I noticed a crack, the blade was removed and rang. A dull tone! "Not again!" shouted the chap!

Sliding mitre saw went the way of most of them - shame it is a PITA to get the gears as spares but all these modern gadgets are sold on a 'don't repair it but replace it' warranty. And this is well out of warranty. Time for a new one - anyone recommend a European make worthy of a DIYer?

Spool valve actuator cap/lever. Has your ball fell off the end?

In my news feed just now..... Kanye West running for POTUS. What makes these people (trump included) think that they would qualify for being any kind of Statesman worthy of a public job! Utter buffoonery in the USA!