RC0

How old are you ?

Just catching up on some reading. 20 + years, you've had a good innings Steve. Wishing you all the best. In hindsight, is there anything you would do differenty if you could reset and start over ? Along the same lines, now that you're a retired, veteran climber....what advice you give to those just starting out hoping for a long term career as a tree climber ? Thanks

Yes mate. What you said last.

The canopy weight on the fall side was enormous, loaded with 8 inch 25 ft limbs. A bore cut would work fine, no doubt. Consider though, if you thing it's safe to position yourself on the underside of that lean cutting away at the holding wood with a lititle saw. Let's say that goes ok and it's time to evenly create a hinge across 30 in with a 16 in bar without the top releasing prematurely. Having a saw that cuts and closes the gap fast enough to keep up with the pull of gravity in such situations is critical. That's a ported 372 with brand new chain. I knew I could cover that ground fast with enough bar length to span the dia meter required. On the ground it's different, you can run off in the worst case scenario. Up there you're stuck. If an internal split is pre-existing, or develops during such a situation, itd be hard pressed to extent to the outside and barberchair because the side cuts have already released the tension. But listen, I'm not a teacher, don't take my word for anything. Every individual should just do what they feel is best. If in doubt, climb higher.

Thanks all. Firstly, the logs were being left stood at 20-25 M, as habitat trees, don't think I mentioned that. I made that cut at 150ft, with 90 ft of top above me. The wide angled lens always squashes things into view, but you can take it as a pretty accurate measurement. The taper on these trees is incredibly gradual to seemingly none existent over 40ft distances say. I could've cut lower, or I could've gone higher still which would have been more climbing and limbing. I knew wherever, it was going to be uncomfortable. So with my safety in mind, I picked a spot that was inbetween big limbs, where the grain is more knotty than straight....which wasn't the case lower down. That and the narrow Humboldt cut with sides cut out is all to reduce the threat of a barber chair, which is very real on a tree of that form and size. Don't want to make it sound overly dramatic, but without taking such measures on a tree like that, a climber could well be making his last cut ever.

Couple tops from Cathedral Grove this week. It all I really had time to video. First shows a 35ft top cut at approx. 200ft. Second is a big leaning top cut at 150. Unfortunately because the camera/climber is attached to the tree, it doesn't really pic up the extent of motion experienced by the climber up there. But, you get the idea. The second top was a rough ride. Use HD setting. Thanks https://youtu.be/pbFqUvrzNuM

We have broadleaf especially here too....maples, oaks, elm, arbutus mainly. Some awkward shapes though. Very slow taper. Had never felt that kind of bending movement in a tree until worked on some of the big leaf mapes in the forrests, competing for light...they're a bit freaky. If I came back to England, I would probably feel a lot safer in the trees Steve, they don't hurt any more or less. You're still stood on 2 points. The long gaffs position your leg only a fraction further from the tree than do short gaffs. But they just penatrate so much better whether stepping up or down, hard or softwood, unfavorable angles too.... so long as the profile is narrow, not abrupt.

Two and a half inch, Stevie

Thanks Dave. Stew, I climb trees like that one quite regularly. So it's not that hard, because I'm always well oiled. I do a lot of SRT ascending too, but it didn't seem worth it on this occasion, for the reason I just mentioned. Thanks

Some footage from this week

It's a 350, Don. 7.3 V8 deisel. 4x4. It's old, but at least you can fix them....no computer. The new diesels are so complicated that if something goes wrong, you can't get home.

Some pics from the last couple of days. Fir and Red cedar removal. Me and another bloke, Dave. We measured the big fir at 160....the cedars much smaller, but a ton of brush to chip. Great weather this week.

Dave, the guy who was helping. I set the camera on burst, then you guaranteed at least a couple good ones from the sequence. Here's a big one from last winter. Got about 6 shots as it tipped over. Best way.

Missed a couple.

Some shots from today

Fair enough. I just like to hear the whole thing, not half a story or second guessing.

There's a difference between not getting along, and someone being a t wat and taking liberties. That's what I took from the OP. Didn't see where misconstrued humor, or over sensitivity were mentioned. Which is why I asked that he give names and examples. Get it out in the open.

why don't you just say who it is you're referring to ? Theres no point compaining but then missing out the most important part. Whats the worse that can happen. They might not realise they're causing offence. And if they don't like it, they can either explain themselves or clear off.

I'm ok thanks, Ben. Glad to hear things are going good for you mate. How tall do you think the red gum was ?

Pruning vid says unavailable here mate ? Watched the previous one though. Good work. How's it going there ? Still sub contracting or ?

There you go young'n

A Humboldt from today

They were staying on site Mick

They were a bit more than just plants....with sprinkler systems. I weighed up jumping the whole lot by falling it at about 20 ft from the ground. With such a head lean, that would've been the optimum height to attempt that cut and land it flat on the road. But, it wouldn't have made it past the leaning arbutus, without smashing some branches. A protected tree. So, I scrapped that idea.

Thanks The battery saw is still a bit piercing to the ears. I prefer static redirects, yes. You can set just the right amount of support between anchors. Yes Timon, we cinched up every log prior to cutting