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munkymadman

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Everything posted by munkymadman

  1. bit short on hobbies this time of the year. i like a place for the spare hand to go, got two might aswell use them equally
  2. ive always used a double hand ascender to ascend as i feel its more ergonomic than a single one. the only problem is they have a second superfluous cam, which increases the weight(im aware the design was originally for foot locking). has anyone thought(or is there already) to design a single cam double handed ascender. i was considering grinding off one of the cams but might weaken the whole structure
  3. woah i didnt expect this much reaction for asking where i can get kern master. so rather than help its further confused me. i think i have some cougar blue i got in oz last year a blue rope with a lighter blue or grey running through it.never asked what it was. nice rope but its on standby in another place at the moment, very smooth with rw lj combo. im a believer in the more static the better, as said you have to account for the base tie extra stretch. also as said style of srwp is a reduced rope angle and its difficult to work above it. those factors have to be accountable. ill check out this escalator stuff
  4. Dead trees are stronger than you'd imagine. The lignin remains in dead while cellulose vanishes. So the wood retains its strength just not its flexibility. Also it loses all its water weight. So there's less forces on rigging points. As said its the root system which is of greatest concern. Also dependant on climates, damper climates softens dead wood. While drier climates wood can keep its rigidity for a lot longer
  5. never really liked the trigger but i never gave it much of a chance. i guess you'd be more accurate if your not using your energy to pull down. just seems a bit violent when it releases
  6. i've got the patron, reckon its alright. probably is better stuff out there you guys seem to be raving about kern master might buy a length. fancied the look of super static too
  7. very nice work vouter, very professional. often fancied the idea of contracting in holland. just never found the contacts must be inhouse a lot.
  8. Oh dear josh everyone's gone on a tangent. So I might as well join them. I prefer a stiff short tether don't seem to need to dress it as much. I think it's safer, even the video states it. But yes the trick with lj combo is too rarely touch the lj, except on straight descents or a reasonably acute angle. Just advance by moving the rw(as said) and lj will follow
  9. i reckon i've got room on my harness for a retrievable dog lead
  10. cut and drop the side thats not over the tunnel, then middle weight attach the back side branches and rig it round
  11. yeah you need a lot of slings 6 seems to be a good amount more if your doing a spruce. speed lines super quick to set up. keep it simple tie a knot to the top zip bits down it a lot of the time you can get away without a 3:1. the big complicated set ups take awhile, but not much longer than a normal rigging set up
  12. most important note of all, if the groundsman is a half wit dont bother speedlining at all. otherwise it'll turn out to be a disillusioning experience, but its so much fun when it works well
  13. if you've got clearance, let it fly. mucking around with a retrieval/lowering line is time consuming and often out weighs the convenience of a speed line. you might as well just rig. speed lining should be simple and quick. i dont care what people say unless its big logs(i know the physics) preload the speed line. generally middleweight attach(better clearance better control) and gob towards the triangular pull of the speed line. tensioning after its been cut is hard for the groundie, slow, and more often than not the piece gets stuck. sometimes speedlines can catapult pieces make sure your on the right side. it should be enough just to have the end of the 3:1 around the back of a stem so he can dump it before it reaches your gear or have it through a redirect so it never does. sorry to waffle on if you need to use a control line make sure theres a couple of metres slack in it so when the piece zips away it stops clear of the canopy rather than in it. i've got more but i think i should shut up now
  14. same happened to my friend he just moved over to the lj. wasnt even very old
  15. work wuss i'd agree with what your saying i think your both confusing each other. its the same formula for when calculating becket loads on cranes. 5% friction is included with the equation(thats going through pulleys) this is dynamic however but still bares relevance. you will have less forces on the opposing side of the climber if you've applied the weight with no force. you dont need 100kg to counter 100kg when over a branch. once you've jumped around a bit though the forces will equalise as you've applied extra force from the climber side. obviously this all only applies if your directly below the limb(angles change everything). if you put so many wraps around your top limb it then almost becomes a top tie in point. put enough wraps the force becomes almost x1 on the limb.
  16. i thought yes, but when i tried to train true novices. they ended up getting stuck and in a right pickle. so then i thought no. it might be more efficient but you have to think more dynamically. especially for branch walking 'thats it now put a 3 to one in off your ascender' bit complex i reckon.
  17. they look good but there a pain in the arse to cut down. like felling a box
  18. 201t. ill admit it has been retuned in the last week and does run better, not as angry with it as before. not the same grunt as 200t, taking the weight and price into consideration, id say the 192 is a better buy. hmm that is a point once modified not covered but its the companies so thats not a concern.
  19. cant find it anywhere, in the thread search. who knows how to get a bit more umpfh! out of the 201's the pick is a bit poor. just a pretty poor performance saw all round.
  20. i wanted to upload my frogman set up with the wrench. dont understand this URL, milarcky, lacks the bling of bens though
  21. thats correct drew, thought i worded it badly. it would be a monumental flaw if that was the case. also would rope diameter effect it. thin line means more line but sometimes its nicer to have a thicker line for flip lining up and down bigger trunks.

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