John Shutler

i use a 880 for the bigger stuff but use the 441 for generall use

this could be because the saw is being made to work alot harder than normall, so the addition of a little more oil in the fuel mix could solve th problem

reckon you will have alot of fun with it. spent most of the day finishing off tables and benches made from wood milled with the alaskan

oh right.i wonder if rob is supplying him? i suppose i was only a matter of time till other people started selling them,i seem to remember at least one other person had a couple for sale at this years aa show, but knew rob was giving them to him.you will have to come over and say hi at next years steve

daniel ?

i contract to the guy that sells the alaskan mill, personally never had a problem with the ripping chain,rob swears by it and it is also recomended by the guy that builds the alaskan lills in america and he has been developing them for about 20 years.what have you been told about it.as regards bar lenth,use whats needed for the job, no point milling a 12 inch log with a 36inch bar. use as big a saw as is possible.mostly rob uses an 88 but just varries the bar length for the job. you cant have to much power

its a singlr cab, with a tool box and a home made ali chip box. its an ok truck but is slow esspecially when its got a bit of weight in it and cant seem to carry that much weight.the tool box is really handybecause you can carry every thing you need,and with some decent padlocks i reckon its pretty secure,il try and get some photos tomorrow but my camera is playing up

on my way home tonight some ****** smashed my wing mirror clean off.does any body know of anywhere where i might be able to get a drivers side wing mirror for a 52 plate iveco turbo daily. any help would be appreciated

i think the problem is that if we dont regulate standards in this industry, unfortunatley they will slip.there arnt enough people trying to promote decent work practices and to many people carrying these so called "reductions" whoare oblivious to the fact that its bad or are aware but dont care.

the other problem i see is that if the customer either continues to have the work done but mentions to said firm oh john shutler says that that is a shocking standard of tree work or says i decided that i dont want the work done because ive been told thats not how it should be done its me thats in the ****. especially when i see the lads from that firm in my local where they all drink

them> where do you get your logs me> well actually im a tree surgeon them> oh really, ive got .......................tree surgeons coming in to crown my 2 oak trees me> crown? them>yes like my neighbours had done,come and have a look me>ohh:bawling: them>doesnt it look neat and tidy (this is the point where i should really have a picture, and i shall be going back tomorrow to try and get one.but picture this, the end of every branch has been headed off,so that it is a nice round shape,this is no sypathetic reduction.i would be very surprised if any natural prunning point had been used.in short written a death warrent for the tree me>well its not what i would have done them> what would you have done And so it continued.the problem is that even after explaining proper reduction methods etc the guy still thought that it looked neat and tidy.i had to be very carefull as i know lads from the firm in question and dont particulary want the flak that could be assosiated with this situation. How do you educate people ie customers about the right and wrong ways of doing tree work when they clearly dont want to be?. How or why does the local tree dept allow this to happen, i intend to speak to one off the local tree officers tommorow and find out his views on the matter

i always just take my time,approach the job in an efficiant and safe manner,dont kill youself to get it done,things take as long as they take and if the job is well pricedthere really isnt any need to

whys that

very funny

pleasure,surf trip with my mates for 6 weeks,3 in nz and 3 in indo,but been thinking about going to live in nz with the misses for a couple of years for a while now

yes i thought about that.to be honest il probbaly get a rope guide at some point but im off to nz and indo in feb so im trying to save the pennys

sip water proof jacket keeps me nice and dry ,same as vdub dont tend to wear waterproof bottoms unless its hammering it down and im on the ground

good points everybody. alex, the shackle is rated to 2 tonnes i tried to get a mallion but the boat shop didnt have any big enough,i figured do the shackle up tight with a pair of pliers with some locktite on it. i thought about lossing the shackle and small ring and replacing it with a krab

sorry marc i cant picture what your saying. the isc and petzl pullys are pretty much identical apart from the petzl one has bearings

the way ive set it up means its retrieveable.is that the petzl pully. the one in my picture is made by isc. i use the petzl one to advance my friction hitch

any thoughts about using this setup to reduce friction in my climbing system

is there compresion

cheers steve

scots pine

here they are