how do i reduce this...

[AA Teccie (Paul)]

Setting aside the relative pro's & cons of the pollard or fell / replace options, are we tying ourselves up in knots over the pollard issue?

 

Granted, 3998 refers to a tree within a certain size range for original pollard, but, I just looked back at the recent pollard thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/95131-pollards-they-out-vogue-uk.html and looking at some of the fine examples there, it's left me wondering, can the 3998 size range be applied to individual vertical stems from an existing single main stem?

 

Is there a reason why this might not be appropriate other than the industry self flagellation over "topping?"

 

Hi Kevin, I hope you're well.

 

I guess the point I was trying to emphasise was that of the pollarding 'v' topping terminology and taking a lead from BS3998.

 

However, in terms of the "application of" BS3998 to specific situations I like your suggestion and, of course, we can all recollect when topping, at least in the first instance, has occurred to much larger trees which have then been successfully managed as 'pollards.'

 

Cheers

Paul

[kevinjohnsonmbe]

Hi Paul, all well thanks!!

 

I wasn't sure if I was missing something obvious in physiological issues and hoping someone would be along to point it out if I was!

 

It's a tricky one, on the one hand we have the standard which says quite clearly what is recommended, then balancing that with attempting to meet the standard whilst satisfying the customers requirements and with an eye on what might be best compromise to satisfy all the demands.

 

I think I probably could be satisfied with pollarding the vertical stems if that was the option accepted by the owner?

[kevinjohnsonmbe]

Out of interest, if you take a look at the video from The Basque country that I posted on the other thread, it shows that the individual pollard shoots/stems are quite large when they cut them off.

 

Had a quick look but will watch in full later. I liked the references to moon phases, old school knowledge!

[AA Teccie (Paul)]

Hi Paul, all well thanks!!

 

I wasn't sure if I was missing something obvious in physiological issues and hoping someone would be along to point it out if I was!

 

 

I guess the premise here is Shigo's "mass to energy ratio" and the more mature the tree the less tolerance of 'heavy' pruning including topping / pollarding, generally speaking.

However, one also needs to consider 'dosage', i.e. how much the tree will tolerate / cope with and various factors affect that inc. species, age, vitality, disease / dysfunction / previous management etc. etc. BUT as we all know, and see, trees often haven't read Shigo and don't conform.

 

BTW we now have a 'true' Cornwallian ARB Approved Contractor...and there's always room for more.

 

Cheers..

Paul

[kevinjohnsonmbe]

Can't see them on the listing Paul, who is it? Search area only goes out to 100KM

[AA Teccie (Paul)]

Can't see them on the listing Paul, who is it? Search area only goes out to 100KM

 

Tom Wells at Expertrees.

 

We're having a few glitches with the website at the moment n hence he'll be on there shortly.

 

Cheers..

Paul

[Stephen Blair]

Cut the crown in half, simply cut the half dozen verticals stems and let nature fill it it in, then go back next year and cut the wispy ends back 3 ft, go back the next year and start taking out the thicker stems which are now being replaced by the new growth.

after 3-4 years they will have a bushy lollipop! If they are happy with this end result you could just propose to cut it to a 6' pole in the first place and they will have a better lower down version in 2 years with no attempt at being all pretend caring for trees.

I tell people it will never be a lovely little tree again, that ship has sailed! The day you put a saw into a tree that isn't a felling cut you will always have to go back and put a saw into a tree.

The other very simple way to determine which management plan is best is ask how much they want to spend, that usually cuts to the chase

[5 shires]

Cut the crown in half, simply cut the half dozen verticals stems and let nature fill it it in, then go back next year and cut the wispy ends back 3 ft, go back the next year and start taking out the thicker stems which are now being replaced by the new growth.

after 3-4 years they will have a bushy lollipop! If they are happy with this end result you could just propose to cut it to a 6' pole in the first place and they will have a better lower down version in 2 years with no attempt at being all pretend caring for trees.

I tell people it will never be a lovely little tree again, that ship has sailed! The day you put a saw into a tree that isn't a felling cut you will always have to go back and put a saw into a tree.

The other very simple way to determine which management plan is best is ask how much they want to spend, that usually cuts to the chase

 

Back to basics....no disrespect to all the technical input put in by others...but it was a simple question which just needed a simple answer...as above or ref pollards answers...think sometimes we all over complicate things when a simple straight forward answer would do....again no disrespect to other meaningful and helpful postings.

[WoodED]

I been asked by client to reduce this rather large ash normal i would feel fair happy about but here were my problem lies. The tree was topped maybe 30 years ago and everything gone straight up and with butchering the tree how do i retain a nice shape or every get a nice shape back. The customer wants it down by half if not lower due to proximity to house so how would you go about it?

 

 

 

Skyview

 

 

Take it back to old cuts 👍🏼

[Marc Lewis]

There's a terminology issue here in regards to customer understanding and industry standards, namely in relation to the term pollarding / re-pollarding.

 

BS3998 gives quite clear guidance on what qualifies as pollarding, at least in the first instance:

 

"If the stem has attained a diameter of more than 50 mm, but less than

about 200 mm at 2 m to 3 m height, pollarding may still be initiated."

 

Hence, on many occasions you will be 'topping', albeit in a professional manner of course, and not pollarding.

 

However such terminology to your customer may be off-putting and do you a dis-service BUT it is important you understand when pollarding aligns with BS3998 and when it doesn't. This may seem a tad pedantic, and academic as the outcome will be anyway, BUT it is as per the industry standard.

 

Perhaps give the customer a range of options here with the pro's n con's of each...and the cost differentials of course

 

Sorry, just being very 'AA Teccie...ISH here!'

 

Cheers..

Paul

 

Yes have read that. The high polards or topping are sometimes referred to as french pollards are they not?