Stihl 036 scored up jug and slug

[lewisyounger16]

Hi guys,

 

Recently my 036qs developed a running issue, once warm would not run at idle and would cut out and not start unless on half choke. I pit it down to carb adjustment. While in the shed today I thought I'd peep down the exhaust and turns out the exhaust side is all scored and one ring was stuck in. I got the saw for cheap for the same reason, no compression. Stupidly I put it down to straight fueling and replaced the piston and cylinder with a kit from L and S engineers for about £50.

 

Now I'm in a position of wanting to fix it, but what should I do? It's not worth an oem kit as it's expensive, I was thinking meteor piston and cylinder? I'd get a decompression plug bung too.

 

But my main issue is this has happened again, and I'm not sure why. I have no pressure test equipment, should I replace the impulse line and intake boot whilst I'm at it? Where else is it likely to leak?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[mendiplogs]

Hi guys,

 

Recently my 036qs developed a running issue, once warm would not run at idle and would cut out and not start unless on half choke. I pit it down to carb adjustment. While in the shed today I thought I'd peep down the exhaust and turns out the exhaust side is all scored and one ring was stuck in. I got the saw for cheap for the same reason, no compression. Stupidly I put it down to straight fueling and replaced the piston and cylinder with a kit from L and S engineers for about £50.

 

Now I'm in a position of wanting to fix it, but what should I do? It's not worth an oem kit as it's expensive, I was thinking meteor piston and cylinder? I'd get a decompression plug bung too.

 

But my main issue is this has happened again, and I'm not sure why. I have no pressure test equipment, should I replace the impulse line and intake boot whilst I'm at it? Where else is it likely to leak?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

Hi mate better off asking Steve on here on work shop post thanks or post the saw to him thanks Jon

[Stubby]

Hi guys,

 

Recently my 036qs developed a running issue, once warm would not run at idle and would cut out and not start unless on half choke. I pit it down to carb adjustment. While in the shed today I thought I'd peep down the exhaust and turns out the exhaust side is all scored and one ring was stuck in. I got the saw for cheap for the same reason, no compression. Stupidly I put it down to straight fueling and replaced the piston and cylinder with a kit from L and S engineers for about £50.

 

Now I'm in a position of wanting to fix it, but what should I do? It's not worth an oem kit as it's expensive, I was thinking meteor piston and cylinder? I'd get a decompression plug bung too.

 

But my main issue is this has happened again, and I'm not sure why. I have no pressure test equipment, should I replace the impulse line and intake boot whilst I'm at it? Where else is it likely to leak?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

You got to find out why it nipped up in the first place . No good fitting new parts if you don't fix the cause . Sounds to me like an air leak from some where causing it to run lean . Could be split pipe work , crank seals etc etc ...

[spudulike]

This is the reason that many send their kit to me. Unless you really know why it failed, brain fade on using oil in the fuel for instance, if a saw has seized, it really needs pressure/vac checking, fuel system strip/inspect/clean and a final tach tune or by ear to ensure it won't just go again and take out the new parts.

 

That is what I do on a full refurb, fixing a seized engine or port tune job!

 

As others have said, if you can't do this then you change/inspect the impulse line, crank seals, manifold, fuel line and inspect the carb gauze filter.

 

I do usually pressure check all the lines either when checking the engine or by removing them and checking if they are suspect.

 

For the saw to seize, the leak must be relatively bad or the carb must be set a little lean - sometimes it is just an accumulation of an air leak, weak fuel/oil mix and a lean carb that makes them fail!

[lewisyounger16]

Thanks, I can stick a new set of bearings and seals and gaskets in, a new intake manifold and a new vacuum hose and it should be good. Set the carb back to stock and hopefully it will be good again

 

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[Dan Forsh]

Thanks, I can stick a new set of bearings and seals and gaskets in, a new intake manifold and a new vacuum hose and it should be good. Set the carb back to stock and hopefully it will be good again

 

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

Yes, you can do all that, and you will be replacing the most likely culprits, however, you would still be working on blind faith.

 

How do you know it isn't something else or can you be sure that you've installed the oil seals correctly?

 

If you can't do it yourself it would certainly be worthwhile finding someone who would be willing to check it for you. Ideally get it pressure/vac tested and diagnose any leaks before you tear in to it.