chain too short?

[Dean O]

old and new chain both have 114 drive links (36 inch bar)

only difference ive noticed after looking closely is - the old chain is a stihl new is Oregon..

just never noticed it being such a struggle getting it on, or so little clearance.

 

thanks guys - will give it a run and see if it stretches a bit.

[Mark_Skyland]

I think the stihl chain is pre stretched which would explain things a bit.

 

It does look like you have a 8 tooth sprocket so an extra link would help, 7 is standard.

 

It will stretch fairly quickly and as long as it isnt touching the rim sprocket it will be OK(we run the exact same setup so speaking from experience here)

[Stubby]

Dont put an extra link in if running an 8 pin . It will help but only for the first fitting . After it has stretched you will run out of adjustment . I have found standard loops ok on an 8 pin . . Extra drivers are needed only if you go larger than an 8 . There is no benefit running over sized drive sprockets on long bars with a standard power head though . You loose all the torque .

Edited December 12, 2015 by Stubby

[C.J]

Dont put an extra link in if running an 8 pin . It will help but only for the first fitting . After it has stretched you will run out of adjustment . I have found standard loops ok on an 8 pin . . Extra drivers are needed only if you go larger than an 8 . There is no benefit running over sized drive sprockets on long bars with a standard power head though . You loose all the torque .

 

Surely only 7 pin on a MS660 with a 36" bar.

 

But 75JGX and an 8 may be better

[Mark_Skyland]

Dont put an extra link in if running an 8 pin . It will help but only for the first fitting . After it has stretched you will run out of adjustment . I have found standard loops ok on an 8 pin . . Extra drivers are needed only if you go larger than an 8 . There is no benefit running over sized drive sprockets on long bars with a standard power head though . You loose all the torque .

 

I have never had that problem using an extra link as it only moves the guidebar back to where it would be if you put a 7 tooth back on.Always had plenty of adjustment and that was with a 3 foot bar.I did have a mess about opening the exhaust up which probably helps. I would love to use a ported 66 must be a bit of a monster!

[Stubby]

I have never had that problem using an extra link as it only moves the guidebar back to where it would be if you put a 7 tooth back on.Always had plenty of adjustment and that was with a 3 foot bar.I did have a mess about opening the exhaust up which probably helps. I would love to use a ported 66 must be a bit of a monster!

 

Did you not run out of adjustment with a few sharpenings left to go ? I have always found a standard loop is ok on an 8 pin .

[Johny Walker]

the standard bar is 84d/l the es bar is 85d/l .having found this out some yrs bk

[scotspine1]

Did you not run out of adjustment with a few sharpenings left to go ? I have always found a standard loop is ok on an 8 pin .

 

You're right Stubby been using 7 pin and 8 pin sprockets on my 660 for years with various bar lengths.

 

I'd occasionally use the 660 36" bar with an 8 pin and extra link and as the chain nears the end of it's life adjustment is running out. I also agree that the 7 pin is better with a 36" bar and 3/8, more torque.

 

I switch to the 8 pin on the 25" 28" bars. For shear cutting power and smooth cutting, the 660 with 25" bar, an 8 pin and 3/8 full chisel is hard to beat.

 

Sometimes if you use a 660 with an 8 pin with 36" bar you think because the chain is going faster you're cutting faster but it's an illusion. Unless you're cutting balsa wood that is.

Edited December 12, 2015 by scotspine1