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Shingle making


tommer9
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Re the taper.

 

These are my thoughts & not based any any thing else.

 

It would be hard to get the double or triple layer on the first row & then neatly lay the second & third rows without it.

 

I would also say that the min roof pitch would be higher with no taper.

 

Eves course at the bottom is fine. Just kick the fascia up a little more.

Surely the face of a shingle with no taper is sitting at a steeper angle than a tapered . So as long as there not too thick it shouldn't be a problem . I've repaired old slate roofs where the slates were stupidly thick and you can get away with that.

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1, Eves course at the bottom is fine. Just kick the fascia up a little more.

2, Surely the face of a shingle with no taper is sitting at a steeper angle than a tapered . So as long as there not too thick it shouldn't be a problem .

3, I've repaired old slate roofs where the slates were stupidly thick and you can get away with that.

 

1, So you will need a steeper roof to start with to allow for the extra kick up that will be flattening it out.

The shingles are 10mm at the thick end (about 1mm at the thin end 450mm later). Thats a 30mm step on a triple layer if the shakes are the same at both ends. That will reduce the effective pitch by about 10%.

 

2, Try stacking a row of books keeping each book in full contact with the next. With the thicker the books you cant get a triple layer without a very short exposed face. So many more rows will be needed.

 

3, With slate I think you only have a double thickness at any point but not my thing. Nor is shingling really just read up on it did a bit with someone that knows what they are doing & then did mine. Tiles are even thicker but tend to only be single layer & the joints are overlapped.

 

Playing on the floor now with DVD cases :thumbup:

 

This website recommends a minimum pitch of 1 in 3 for shakes & 1 in 4 for shingles on normal roofs.

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Slates are also tapered. The pitch of the roof should mean tht the slate/shingle/shake only touch on the batten and on the tip of the slate. This gives the slate spring and helps prevent wind driven rain from pushing under the slate. This is why there is a minimum pitch for roofing materials. If this pitch is exceeded you can end up with a scenario where the slate/tile/shingle is actually lower at the top than the tip and the water runs into the roof.

 

There are several types of shake. Some are machine made, some only sawn on one face some hand split on both.

 

OP: Coyle Timber in Bath stock both shingles and shakes. Might be worth giving them a call.

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Slates are also tapered. The pitch of the roof should mean tht the slate/shingle/shake only touch on the batten and on the tip of the slate. This gives the slate spring and helps prevent wind driven rain from pushing under the slate. This is why there is a minimum pitch for roofing materials. If this pitch is exceeded you can end up with a scenario where the slate/tile/shingle is actually lower at the top than the tip and the water runs into the roof.

 

There are several types of shake. Some are machine made, some only sawn on one face some hand split on both.

 

OP: Coyle Timber in Bath stock both shingles and shakes. Might be worth giving them a call.

 

I agree with most of that but slates are definitely not tapered.

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I have "stupidly" big and thick slates on the front side of our long cottage facing the road and 24" x 12" on the back. The stupidly big ones are called randoms and are very old each layer gets smaller as you go up from the eaves to the apex. They start off at about 36" x 24". and 1" thick and reduce to about 16" x 8" at the top but still quite thick. The roofer hated them, but our cottage is listed and we had to tick boxes. None of the slates are tapered, as they are split by hand along the natural cleavage planes in the rock. As they still are as a machine can't split the slate as accurately as a human.

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