Rope Advance When Using the 'O' Rig

[Joe Newton]

The reason I never used that system (apart from using a pantin as Rich mentioned) is that depending on what hitch you use, you sometimes have to get it to bite manually. If your hitch decides not to bite and you have no way of reaching it you could be in trouble. You may also need to descend suddenly.

 

Always have your system where you can reach it.

[Brocky]

Instead of buying a foot ascender, do you know about the one foot only footlocking?

[Steve Bullman]

Instead of buying a foot ascender, do you know about the one foot only footlocking?

 

tell us more?

[Joe Newton]

If I've wasted £40 I'll be upset.

[Steve Bullman]

im guessing its a case of wrapping the tail around your foot once then standing up on it whilst holding the end still.

[Joe Newton]

im guessing its a case of wrapping the tail around your foot once then standing up on it whilst holding the end still.

 

 

What's the other foot doing?

[Brocky]

Correct Steve, the section of rope coming from the top traps the part going to the ground. Point your toes down and keep it under your bottom as you stand to auto block it.

 

Your other foot dangles or put it on top of other foot to help standing.

 

The first few cycles you have to pull the rope to advance it, but after you gain some height and added weight from the rope you only have to point your toes up, so the rope doesn't fall off, and wiggle your foot to advance the rope.

[Joe Newton]

Unless the other foot is putting the kettle on, or telling the first foot how well it's doing, it can flipping well join in with the graft.

 

That would make it footlocking.

[Brocky]

You're right Joe! But it is a little stressful on the knee and hip joints.

 

I use 9mm HTP regularly and my foot ascender was tearing it up no matter how careful I was, so I go with this method.

[R Mac]

The reason I never used that system (apart from using a pantin as Rich mentioned) is that depending on what hitch you use, you sometimes have to get it to bite manually. If your hitch decides not to bite and you have no way of reaching it you could be in trouble. You may also need to descend suddenly.

 

Always have your system where you can reach it.

 

I haven't experienced a friction hitch slip in either configuration, yet, (using the Hitch Climber) but it seems to me thinking about it that it's likely to happen as you place your weight on the hitch prior to taking in more rope during ascent. With the O Rig both hands are below the hitch holding your weight and you're coming onto the friction hitch while still holding with both hands, on the regular set-up by the time you realise the friction hitch is failing to bite you're holding on with one hand above the hitch and the other below the hitch at waist level tending the slack, either way I think there would be a bit of added pressure while it was sorted.

 

As far as being able to reach the hitch is concerned the distance you can reach forward/above with one hand is greater than the distance you can reach with both hands together as you tend to twist sideways when reaching with one hand so even with the friction hitch in the ascending position and far enough away to allow as much rope to be taken in as possible (waist to full double hand reach) you should (maybe) still be able to reach it with one hand.

 

Just thinking out loud here and definitely not saying you're wrong