How long should a bar last?

[tomlt]

I've never before worn out a bar being only a home owner/hobbyist user, but my 3 yr old ms251 bar is starting to look a little "past" it and seems to be wearing the chains more now. Is it reasonable for a bar thats probably done no more than about 10hours cutting time to need replacing? I compare this to my ms180 bar thats probably done more work, yet seems to be a lot less worn.

 

Im running the supplied .325 16" rollomatic bar on this, and most surprisingly it seems to have worn a divet just behind the sprocket nose, and i do switch my bar over when changing chains. Now I am guilty of not deburring the bar very often (maybe only once on this machine) is that likely to have caused it to wear more quickly?

 

Suffice to say I've got my eye on a sugi bar from Rob as a replacement.

 

Cheers, Tom.

 

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[miker]

if your sharpening isnt up to scratch then maybe you are leaning a bit on the bar to get your cuts done,a well sharpened chain will pull through the wood without having to lean on it, check oil flow to the bar also, clean oil holes and bar groove

[tomlt]

Thanks Miker, chains are kept sharp, I hand sharpen often between cuts and use a portek grinder for major resharpens, so i know my chains are good. Oil feed is fine too, ive not adjusted it since buying it, but am using 1 tank bar oil to 2 tanks fuel which should be fine for the sort of firewood work im doing. It also puts out a decent spray off the end of the bar on the cardboard test.

 

Cheers, Tom.

 

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[diervek]

Nose or heel wear is usually a sign of the chain being too slack, and I'd flip the bar every maintenance routine.

Edited November 4, 2015 by diervek

[Joe Newton]

If you don't debur the bar often enough it can cause bits of the edge to break off in the cut.

 

You can tell if it needs deburring by running your finger along the edge of the bar.

[dreish]

using 1 tank bar oil to 2 tanks fuel which should be fine for the sort of firewood work im doing. It also puts out a decent spray off the end of the bar on the cardboard test.

 

Cheers, Tom.

 

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My saws always need the chain oil tank filled with each fuel fill. But perhaps mine over oil,although I don't think so.

Possibly yours might be better oiling more? The bars usually get hot areas on them that you can see, if there is not enough oil.

Chain tension is also a major wear factor,but i'm sure you know this.

 

cheers

dreish

[Stubby]

As has been said a " dip " just behind the nose wheel is a sign of a slack chain on a bar that never gets flipped . If you dont de burr it will de burr itself causing crumbling and cracking of the burred rails .

[Mesterh]

A lot longer than 10 hours, presuming it is as genuine stihl bar.

As already started possibly incorrect chain tension or oiling issues. You say 2 tanks of oil to 1 of fuel. Do you fill the oil up every time you fill the fuel up?

 

Could also be that the bar has been pinched causing a hot spot.

[NFG]

Hi

 

I would turn the oil flow up a bit, I try and set it so fuel runs out before oil so just less than 1:1

 

I would also periodically inspect your bar and dress it if there are any burrs - as suggested by others - make sure your chain runs smoothly round it & not too tight.

 

When your bar is done you can now get a Sugi bar for that mount SUGI FOR STIHL | Sugihara Guide Bars see group 2 for 025/250/251 they are very hard wearing but dont forget to grease the roller tips - some Stihl bars don't have grease holes for the roller.

 

 

N

[stihlmadasever]

If your maintenance up is up to scratch and regularly done then there shouldnt be any issues.Guide bars do wear out in time,check the bar for burrs and make sure the rails arent splaying by using a square edge on it.

All of the other replys are good tips too.A good maintenance routine is key to good woodchips