To empty the fuel or leave it full...?

[njm]

An excellent and informative bit of research, but although the new green fuel hose from Stihl is probably the best I have seen, there are still a lot of hoses around that are not too good and will be effected by petrol solvents. It is the nature of rubber to be effected so, and even the best are not perfect.

A lot of the cheaper Chinese machines around have hoses that rot right out in the first 12 months.

And of course its not just hoses, but also diaphragms that suffer. I see failures of hoses and diaphragms on a daily basis. Believe me, it does happen.

 

Its interesting to see the Stihl comment about flushing petrol with Motomix (very similar to Aspen). They are obviously concerned about storing with petrol residue and want it washed out. I was a bit surprised to see them then recommend to tip the Motomix out. I would be more than happy to leave Aspen in.

 

But at the end of the day we all have different habits, and different understanding of the issues, so 'Out or In' is really down to what suits each person best.

 

Changed countless rubber fuel lines destroyed with pump fuel , dry stored and wet stored machines , Husky hedge trimmers , fill with fuel and watch the hose dissolve . Anyone put any thought into pump fuel damage to crank seals and impulse pipes before switching to Aspen ?

[Haironyourchest]

Changed countless rubber fuel lines destroyed with pump fuel , dry stored and wet stored machines , Husky hedge trimmers , fill with fuel and watch the hose dissolve . Anyone put any thought into pump fuel damage to crank seals and impulse pipes before switching to Aspen ?

 

Glad I don't have Huskys anymore so....Bought a Stihl ms250 some years ago, had been stored wet and dry for five years prior, run for an hour a year, probably filled from the same petrol can for five years too. Not a bother to it, had the fuel lines out and they were grand. Searved me for a few years of similar treatment, then sold it, still going grand.

 

Im thinking about starting a business selling "Haironyourchest's Miracle Carb & Fule Line Restorer" "Store You Machines With The Miracle Unguent And They Will Heal Whilst You Sleep!!"

[Macpherson]

Hi, the list of materials that have been tested and found to be effected by the ethanol now in our fuel is fairly extensive and not just various rubbers, worth a google !

I`ve never been in the habit of leaving any fuel system dry and since I`ve become aware of the ethanol problem I`ve been using fuel stabiliser in all my petrol engines. Interestingly, about a year ago I switched from the Briggs stuff to Ethanol Shield and found that gradually several of my older engines which could be tempremental began to settle down and run more evenly, I can only assume that it`s doing what it claims and cleaning the varnish that coats jets and other parts.

Using Aspen is obviously the best solution, but in my case it`s not just saws that I`m worried about and at £12 for a bottle of Ethanol Shield which treats up to 300 litres of fuel I get the peace of mind knowing that my engines are protected and it`s cheap enough that I can also use it to protect a petrol car which potentially would be the most expensive fuel system that I wouldn`t want to have to repair, cheers

[Haironyourchest]

The still HP Ultra is claimed to have some kind of ethanol-binding agent in it, as well as stabiliser. I have never seen fuel stabilisers for sale around here, so I'll have to trust in the HP. Might start using it at 25:1 and see what happens.

[njm]

The still HP Ultra is claimed to have some kind of ethanol-binding agent in it, as well as stabiliser. I have never seen fuel stabilisers for sale around here, so I'll have to trust in the HP. Might start using it at 25:1 and see what happens.

 

Just remember @ 25:1 you have 2% less fuel

[UK Guy]

Thanks for all the replies.

Very interesting as reading all the different methods people use and haven't had issues, my thoughts now are DOES IT REALLY MATTER.

Aspens, additional fuel additives....mmmm not sure if it will make that much of a difference

if you start with premium fresh fuel and just start and run the saw (after a good shake) a few times over the winter which I have always done, then dump the fuel and add fresh before using again.

By brimming the tank it should keep any condensation thus water out of the equation which has so far worked for me.

So my consensus on this subject will be 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' so whatever works for you is the best way.

Thanks again everyone for your input.

[biggarlogs]

I use an ethanol fix fuel additive with pump fuel is this the way to go? Says it will keep fuel good for a year

[UK Guy]

It probably is a good thing to do but I'm not one for additive. If you use a good 2 stroke oil this 'should' have all what's needed already. I'm no scientist but wouldn't want to add anything into my 'working fuel' apart from 2 stroke oil.

For storage though it does make sense.

[marne]

I store my smaller 2 stroke engines half filled to nearly empty.

Keeps the rubber parts wet and leaves space for filling up with fresh fuel at the next start.

[TreeswingerPerth]

Aspen , never had an issue .