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Coating outdoor furniture


Mike Black
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Traditionally oil paint has always been mixed with linseed, you can make paint using linseed and colour pigments.

 

Pure linseed oil takes a while to dry as it doesn't have the metal drying agents of boiled linseed oil.

 

Not my imagination then :biggrin:

 

Dad is telling me the boiled linseed doesn't last anywhere near as long as the plain stuff, but he did say the plain linseed oil takes a couple of weeks to dry. The English summer being what it is I won't be doing mine until I put it away for winter, my backside is going on the chair while the sun is shining :thumbup1:

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Guitar builders use a variety of different stains on the untreated wood before a final number of coats of lacquer. This is how the tobacco burst or sunburst effects are achieved, as well as a number of other nice effects. I guess if you apply stains to the wood before oils it may help keep the colour longer between coats of oil. Just a thought, I haven't tried this before, but might now!

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Not my imagination then :biggrin:

 

 

 

Dad is telling me the boiled linseed doesn't last anywhere near as long as the plain stuff, but he did say the plain linseed oil takes a couple of weeks to dry. The English summer being what it is I won't be doing mine until I put it away for winter, my backside is going on the chair while the sun is shining :thumbup1:

 

 

I would use osmo exterior oil. Do the prep and application exactly as the tin states and you should have no problem, whatever coating you use it will need re application each year due to weather, wood movement and wear and tear. A fiddly job but worth it to not have plastic furniture in your garden

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The only oil I found worked is Le Tonkinois oil - you mst have at least 4 coats but it does survive the winter and also does so on flat upward facing surfaces.

 

 

It is more a varnish than an oil - you can matt it down for the last coat with an additive.

 

 

I've not tried the Osmo exterior but all Osmo oils are quality! :biggrin:

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It`s interesting that nobody`s using tung oil which is a constituent of the branded oils mentioned, Danish oil, for instance, is a generic name and is made up of a mix of tung and other oils in different proportions depending on the brand.

I use pure tung oil all the time, thinning with white spirit as folks are saying, metallic driers are readily available and can be added to quicken drying times. which can be a problem.

The thing about using linseed oil outside is that it has a tendency to get mildew and turn black which can be extremely annoying and won`t happen with properly applied tung oil. Cheers

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We are in the process of getting the cedar treatment oil we sell tested on things like fencing and outside furniture. Its a Napthenic oil with a UV protection index. It is traditionally used on cedar cladding where the customer wants to keep the natural colour of the wood. I will keep you posted on how it performs.

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