French drains on land thanks

[LGP Eddie]

Hi Jon,

It all depends on what size of pipe you're installing, but in general you want the trench as narrow as possible.

 

The reality however is it's generally dictated by what you're digging it with?

 

The old school when stone was a bit cheaper, and you weren't using a trencher was to use a 9" bucket on a JCB 3cx.

A hateful operation if in good clay, and you soon get used to forgetting any idea of shaking/banging material out of the bucket.

 

With Mini excavators now, you can go with 9" or even down to 6" on shallow narrow stuff, but far and away the best in terms of trench quality and stone use reduction is to use a tapered Tile Bucket.

 

I have a couple myself, one for 13 tonne machines with different tips for 4 or 6" pipe, plus one for the 8 tonner that will do 4" pipe.

It certainly doesn't take long for these to pay, and what many people don't realise is they tend to compact the sides as they dig, helping it to stay upright along with the tapered shape.

They also form a nice pipe channel, making a much neater job all round.

 

As for stone, if it's field stuff then 40mm clean is the norm, and you get more volume when buying this in comparison to smaller grades.

 

Hard to say exactly what you will use without knowing the bucket and average depth/width?

 

Eddie.

[mendiplogs]

Thought up by Henry Flagg in the US .........

 

HI STUBBY YES IN 1859 mate

[mendiplogs]

Hi Jon,

It all depends on what size of pipe you're installing, but in general you want the trench as narrow as possible.

 

The reality however is it's generally dictated by what you're digging it with?

 

The old school when stone was a bit cheaper, and you weren't using a trencher was to use a 9" bucket on a JCB 3cx.

A hateful operation if in good clay, and you soon get used to forgetting any idea of shaking/banging material out of the bucket.

 

With Mini excavators now, you can go with 9" or even down to 6" on shallow narrow stuff, but far and away the best in terms of trench quality and stone use reduction is to use a tapered Tile Bucket.

 

I have a couple myself, one for 13 tonne machines with different tips for 4 or 6" pipe, plus one for the 8 tonner that will do 4" pipe.

It certainly doesn't take long for these to pay, and what many people don't realise is they tend to compact the sides as they dig, helping it to stay upright along with the tapered shape.

They also form a nice pipe channel, making a much neater job all round.

 

As for stone, if it's field stuff then 40mm clean is the norm, and you get more volume when buying this in comparison to smaller grades.

 

Hard to say exactly what you will use without knowing the bucket and average depth/width?

 

Eddie.

 

HI EDDIE thanks for that mate jon

[Stubby]

HI STUBBY YES IN 1859 mate

 

Yea . I was 2 then

[mendiplogs]

Yea . I was 2 then

 

HI STUBBY that OLD you look good mate MUST BE THAT ASPEN:thumbup1: THANKS JON

[mendiplogs]

Hi Jon,

It all depends on what size of pipe you're installing, but in general you want the trench as narrow as possible.

 

The reality however is it's generally dictated by what you're digging it with?

 

The old school when stone was a bit cheaper, and you weren't using a trencher was to use a 9" bucket on a JCB 3cx.

A hateful operation if in good clay, and you soon get used to forgetting any idea of shaking/banging material out of the bucket.

 

With Mini excavators now, you can go with 9" or even down to 6" on shallow narrow stuff, but far and away the best in terms of trench quality and stone use reduction is to use a tapered Tile Bucket.

 

I have a couple myself, one for 13 tonne machines with different tips for 4 or 6" pipe, plus one for the 8 tonner that will do 4" pipe.

It certainly doesn't take long for these to pay, and what many people don't realise is they tend to compact the sides as they dig, helping it to stay upright along with the tapered shape.

They also form a nice pipe channel, making a much neater job all round.

 

As for stone, if it's field stuff then 40mm clean is the norm, and you get more volume when buying this in comparison to smaller grades.

 

Hard to say exactly what you will use without knowing the bucket and average depth/width?

 

Eddie.

 

Hi all does anyone have any pics of there French drains as members been doing them thanks Jon 👍

[Joy Yeomans]

Jon a friend of ours saved cost of stone and has done an old fashioned trick of filing the trenches with small bales straw instead of stone he has had some success with this but also tried using a couple of silage trailers of conifer chip off us this has also proved successful he said. albeit only done 2 years ago but has worked so far plus he has saved thousands as it's tenanted land.

joy

[biggarlogs]

we done some drains using waste glass.cubed it was will last for ever,maybe all those empty cizzer bottles will come in handy.glass was from bottle bank waste,mind you you dont want to go in with a spade in a year or two!!

[codlasher]

Ha! LGP Eddie, yes banging and shaking out clay is not my favorite pastime.

 

For shorter drain runs I have my smallest bucket which is a 12" toothless to dig. If you have a smaller machine you can use a 9". Be careful swinging a 1 ton bag though.

I can do 30m runs @1.60 with a fall by eye and the help of my trusty level. I dangle a 1 ton bag of 20mm over the trench and using a weeding slasher, carefully, cut a small hole to allow the material to dribble out SLOWLY and cover the pipe to the correct depth. My machine is stable and can do this safely.

Any drainage job bigger is contracted to the local specialists who have all the correct equipment; Land Drainage Contractor | Allan Collyer & Sons Ltd or similar in your area.

 

The picture shows the start using a piece of solid pipe which is at the ditch end.

codlasher

Edited May 6, 2015 by codlasher
Addendum

[mendiplogs]

Ha! LGP Eddie, yes banging and shaking out clay is not my favorite pastime.

 

For shorter drain runs I have my smallest bucket which is a 12" toothless to dig. If you have a smaller machine you can use a 9". Be careful swinging a 1 ton bag though.

I can do 30m runs @1.60 with a fall by eye and the help of my trusty level. I dangle a 1 ton bag of 20mm over the trench and using a weeding slasher, carefully, cut a small hole to allow the material to dribble out SLOWLY and cover the pipe to the correct depth. My machine is stable and can do this safely.

Any drainage job bigger is contracted to the local specialists who have all the correct equipment; Land Drainage Contractor | Allan Collyer & Sons Ltd or similar in your area.

 

The picture shows the start using a piece of solid pipe which is at the ditch end.

codlasher

HI COD that's great pics mate thanks for that great help thanks Jon