Chainsaw trousers earnt their money

[Martin Jenkins]

I am a software architect, work on big computer systems.

 

For fun, I grow and fell trees - i.e. I am no expert. I do have a full set of PPE.

 

Sunday, felled a tree - not massive, maybe 10 inches at the cut point, but it got hung up; wrong stance (my fault definitely) saw me help the thing come down, and it dropped suddenly, bashing the chainsaw, which swung into my knee; the chainsaw trousers (type A. class 1) shredded, and no broken skin, but big bruise.

 

Looked for new chainsaw trousers - and thought better check what this class business means - and my chainsaw (Husqy 357XP) has a 22m/s speed, which means it is a class 2 - good grief! Class 1 trousers seem to be about £70, but class 2 about £250! Cheapest I have found is £150.

 

I have been doing this for 7 years; am wondering if I learn from my mistake, and make sure that stance is such that very unlikely to have a chainsaw swing into leg in the first place, and get a replacement set of Class 1 trousers.

 

A search on here had somebody pointing out that the trousers must be seen as the last line of defense - and that oily dirty class 2 will be shredded just the same as class 1.

 

Sensible thoughts?

[Logit]

Hi Martin, it sounds like your chainsaw trousers did a good job there ! One idea to help reduce the risk with the hung up trees is to buy a hand winch e.g. a Tirfor so that you are not near the hung up tree when it comes down. The medium sized Tirfor is a useful size since not too heavy to move around and you can always double the pull with a pulley if needs be.

[Fentiger]

Jones's have some class A on a good price deal ATM:thumbup1:

[Martin Jenkins]

Jones's have some class A on a good price deal ATM:thumbup1:

 

Thanks - which Jones? FR Jones & Son? They seem to be £72 for type A, class 1

[jrose]

I don't know anyone who gets too hung up over class, saw trousers are saw trousers! If it's of paticular concern, a cheaper option might be to slow down your chain speed by putting a sprocket with less teeth on, ie. A 9t sprocket is faster chain speed less torque, a 6t sprocket is more torque less speed

 

I'm fairly certain I've got that the right way round!

[rowan lee]

I am a software architect, work on big computer systems.

 

For fun, I grow and fell trees - i.e. I am no expert. I do have a full set of PPE.

 

Sunday, felled a tree - not massive, maybe 10 inches at the cut point, but it got hung up; wrong stance (my fault definitely) saw me help the thing come down, and it dropped suddenly, bashing the chainsaw, which swung into my knee; the chainsaw trousers (type A. class 1) shredded, and no broken skin, but big bruise.

 

Looked for new chainsaw trousers - and thought better check what this class business means - and my chainsaw (Husqy 357XP) has a 22m/s speed, which means it is a class 2 - good grief! Class 1 trousers seem to be about £70, but class 2 about £250! Cheapest I have found is £150.

 

I have been doing this for 7 years; am wondering if I learn from my mistake, and make sure that stance is such that very unlikely to have a chainsaw swing into leg in the first place, and get a replacement set of Class 1 trousers.

 

A search on here had somebody pointing out that the trousers must be seen as the last line of defense - and that oily dirty class 2 will be shredded just the same as class 1.

 

Sensible thoughts?

 

Hey Martin, I'm in the same boat as yourself, just a weekender. Have had a few close shaves over the years, with nicks on chainsaw trousers etc, never shredded any yet, thankfully. Out of interest was your saw engaged with any level of throttle when it kicked or just free spinning to a stop?

 

I have often wondered about the class thing myself, I run 2 pro saws (a 50cc and 76cc) and wondered if I really stand a chance of not hitting flesh regardless of class 1,2 or 3 if I get caught out at full rev's. I am lead to believe length of bar is also a factor, i.e get clipped at the tip of a 25" bar as opposed to the end closest the drive sprocket. I know which end is likely to clog the saw up faster, if you get my drift.

[CJM]

Once bitten twice shy, you'll never do it again you've learned your lesson and it'll always be in the back of you mind when you start cutting.

I wouldn't get to hung up on class of chainsaw pants most of us wear class 1

[Martin Jenkins]

Hey Martin, I'm in the same boat as yourself, just a weekender. Have had a few close shaves over the years, with nicks on chainsaw trousers etc, never shredded any yet, thankfully. Out of interest was your saw engaged with any level of throttle when it kicked or just free spinning to a stop?

 

I have often wondered about the class thing myself, I run 2 pro saws (a 50cc and 76cc) and wondered if I really stand a chance of not hitting flesh regardless of class 1,2 or 3 if I get caught out at full rev's. I am lead to believe length of bar is also a factor, i.e get clipped at the tip of a 25" bar as opposed to the end closest the drive sprocket. I know which end is likely to clog the saw up faster, if you get my drift.

 

The chain was running when the tree knocked it - it happened very quickly and I am sure my hand came off the throttle, so must have been free spinning for the fractional second between impact of wood, and my knee. Bar is 15".

[Martin Jenkins]

Once bitten twice shy, you'll never do it again you've learned your lesson and it'll always be in the back of you mind when you start cutting.

I wouldn't get to hung up on class of chainsaw pants most of us wear class 1

 

That is my view as well - be damn careful about considering where the chainsaw can go. I do not want to be hung up.

[wisewood]

I always go for type c's, I don't climb but feel happier and warmer;-) with all round protection. I knew a lad that got his calf severed by another users kick back, bad work practice was at fault but the resulting injury certainly played on my mind.

 

 

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