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Im more sketched out you paid £150 for a clutch on your 064?

 

I have to say im with you on the dubious autotune systems. They (560xp) are cropping up now with scored pistons etc (to be fair most are prob straight gassed) but at £90 for a piston they aren't cheap to repair.

 

 

a lot of ppl are continuing to use 2t oil thats only good enough for an old skool engine.

newer saws are using less fuel...less fuel means less oil being distributed through the engine whilst running. the oil choice needs to be good enough to match the engine performance and account for a reduction in consumption of approx 25%.

 

theres plenty of threads on here about "best" oil choice v cost, im not going to re-ignite that here only to say dont use bog standard 2t oil...its a high performance engine, it only follows you should use a high performance oil!!

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a lot of ppl are continuing to use 2t oil thats only good enough for an old skool engine.

newer saws are using less fuel...less fuel means less oil being distributed through the engine whilst running. the oil choice needs to be good enough to match the engine performance and account for a reduction in consumption of approx 25%.

 

theres plenty of threads on here about "best" oil choice v cost, im not going to re-ignite that here only to say dont use bog standard 2t oil...its a high performance engine, it only follows you should use a high performance oil!!

 

Like you say a decent high performance oil should be used but fuel/consumption is irrelevant as it will still be using 50/1 whatever the consumption is.

However good oil doesn't always mean expensive is best and the most suitable.

We all have our favourites and dislikes one way or another that's not to say whos right and whos wrong but the best oil is the one that doesn't seize the saw up :thumbup1:

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Like you say a decent high performance oil should be used but fuel/consumption is irrelevant as it will still be using 50/1 whatever the consumption is.

However good oil doesn't always mean expensive is best and the most suitable.

We all have our favourites and dislikes one way or another that's not to say whos right and whos wrong but the best oil is the one that doesn't seize the saw up :thumbup1:

 

Fuel consumption is VERY relevant. If your saw uses 25% less fuel per revolution/amount of work than previous saws, it is also getting 25% less oil every time that piston goes up and down. This means if you run your new 25% more fuel efficient saw at 50:1, the piston and cylinder are seeing a ratio of closer to 65:1 compared to your old saw.

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Fuel consumption is VERY relevant. If your saw uses 25% less fuel per revolution/amount of work than previous saws, it is also getting 25% less oil every time that piston goes up and down. This means if you run your new 25% more fuel efficient saw at 50:1, the piston and cylinder are seeing a ratio of closer to 65:1 compared to your old saw.

 

50:1 is a ratio It will still be 50 : 1 The proportion of petrol may be 25% less than an old engine and therefore the proportion of oil will be 25% less This still equals a mix of 50 : 1 . . Take the whole 5ltre can mixed at 50 : 1 . Tip out an egg cup full . That egg cup full is still 50 : 1 .

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50:1 is a ratio It will still be 50 : 1 The proportion of petrol may be 25% less than an old engine and therefore the proportion of oil will be 25% less This still equals a mix of 50 : 1 . . Take the whole 5ltre can mixed at 50 : 1 . Tip out an egg cup full . That egg cup full is still 50 : 1 .

 

I was going to say the same as Stubby is correct. I think Wes is trying to say that the volume of oil going through the saw if the fuel saving is 25% represents the same amount that a mix of oil a 65:1 mix would give but he is American:001_rolleyes::lol::001_tongue:

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50:1 is a ratio It will still be 50 : 1 The proportion of petrol may be 25% less than an old engine and therefore the proportion of oil will be 25% less This still equals a mix of 50 : 1 . . Take the whole 5ltre can mixed at 50 : 1 . Tip out an egg cup full . That egg cup full is still 50 : 1 .

 

My last sentence should have read:

 

" This means if you run your new 25% more fuel efficient saw at 50:1, the piston and cylinder are seeing an oil ratio of closer to 65:1 compared to your old saw".

 

The mix itself may be the same, but the amount of oil reaching your engine is significantly less. And I think it is beginning to show in the types of failures I am seeing in these saws. Saws have always seized or had other lubrication issues. I am not so sure why there would be a need to chance it any further and lean out the ratio ever more except to please the EPA, et al. But, as I have said before, it's your saw, it's your prerogative.

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My last sentence should have read:

 

" This means if you run your new 25% more fuel efficient saw at 50:1, the piston and cylinder are seeing an oil ratio of closer to 65:1 compared to your old saw".

 

The mix itself may be the same, but the amount of oil reaching your engine is significantly less. And I think it is beginning to show in the types of failures I am seeing in these saws. Saws have always seized or had other lubrication issues. I am not so sure why there would be a need to chance it any further and lean out the ratio ever more except to please the EPA, et al. But, as I have said before, it's your saw, it's your prerogative.

 

To be honest Wes I did know what you meant ./ i was being pernickety . Apologies. And for the reasons you cite I use Red line racing 2 stroke oil :001_smile:

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