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Chainsaw training when physically disabled


ccharlie
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Hi all,

 

This is my first post here and I'm delighted to be learning so much from all the threads!

 

I'm considering buying 10 acres of woodland and would love to start learning how to properly manage my land. One part of that is to learn about using a chainsaw. (Yes, yes, I know there are many, many other stages to managing woodland!).

 

And here I've got a small issue: I'm paralysed from the knees down. I walk with crutches, I drive, I ride motorbikes on and off-road, I fly microlights. My disability really doesn't stop me doing much. But standing upright and unsupported, particularly when holding something heavy, is difficult.

 

Can one operate a chainsaw from a kneeling position? Can it be conducted when leaning against something stable for support?

 

Are there any organisations active in such an area? Are there any training schools or individuals who have developed helpful solutions to such problems?

 

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts,

Charlie

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The only thing I can think of that may be an issue is felling and breaking down bigger crowns. It's not advisable to stay next to the stump as a tree is going over, so perhaps kneeling isn't the safest option. The same applies to breaking down a crown on a felled tree, it can roll about a bit and if you were kneeling it could be a problem.

 

A shooting stick or similar might be an idea if you have the option to keep whatever you're cutting off the floor.

 

For other tasks, crosscutting etc, I can't see why you would have a problem, other than in the wetter seasons of the year when you'll end up with soggy legs! :)

 

Best of luck with the woodland, it'll be a satisfying project.

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hi charlie, i don`t know anything about special training but you sound like the kind of guy who can overcome obstacles, good luck.

 

Thats what I was going to say. Best of luck.

 

Dan makes some very valid points regarding safety though, you HAVE to be able to be able to get out of danger in a hurry if needs be, so I think you would probably be limited to the cutting of materials already safely on the ground. Other than that, if you're stable on your knees I can't see a massive problem with cutting in this position.

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Thats what I was going to say. Best of luck.

 

Dan makes some very valid points regarding safety though, you HAVE to be able to be able to get out of danger in a hurry if needs be, so I think you would probably be limited to the cutting of materials already safely on the ground. Other than that, if you're stable on your knees I can't see a massive problem with cutting in this position.

 

+1.

 

I cut on my knees fairly often, it's quite an ergonomic working position in certain situations.

 

Where are you based? I'd have a play with a saw before committing to buying the woodland so you can go in eyes open. Someone on here should be able to help you out.

 

I would, I'm right down in Kent.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

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First thoughts are the actual operation of the saw shouldn't be an issue for you, the risk assessment for each use would need careful thought.

 

1. Your ability to move quickly in case of the tree rolling, limbs falling towards you, etc.

2. The position of the saw in relation to your body. Working from your knees you would be more likely to have the saw closer to your body ( you won't have the same ability to bend or stretch) and higher up your body. Consider other chainsaw protection.

3. Should there be an incident how mobile are you to reach help?

4. Chainsaws are definitely 2 hands at all times. You need to be sure you are balanced in such a way that you don't need your hands at all.

 

Apologies of the above offends in any way, it isn't supposed to. If you want to do it you can there will be things to think about however that fully able people take for granted.

 

I would personally contact your local training place ( state your location and people will offer suggestions) and meet up to discuss directly. I would think one to one would be best with an experienced trainer who can then give the risk assessment the time it deserves.

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One consideration might be what you are using the woodland for.

 

If it's small diameter coppice (e.g. hazel) then you are likely to need to need to work on you knees anyway, and each individual branch will be small enough not to move out of the way when it's cut free. Alternatively, if it's amenity then you may not need to do much felling. Woodland grown trees also tend to be tall and straight with little or no crown, so less of an issue breaking them down as once felled and the top removed they are less likely to roll.

 

If you are cutting up for firewood, you can probably break down into sections you can extract, but you will need to take into account the handling issues.

 

If it's big stuff and you want to try chainsaw milling, I always end up doing this on my knees anyway! With a winch set-up, you would be at very little disadvantage, although a second pair of hands to help extract boards and beams would be very useful (which is no different to anyone else doing it).

 

Working alone in the woods isn't advisable anyway (although quite a few people do it, myself included) so in practice if you work with someone else, either a friend, paid help or for a share in the extracted product, that should take care of the few jobs you can't do.

 

Worth noting that, for your own site as a hobby, you don't formally need training. That's not to say it's not a very good idea to ensure that you know what you are doing, and training is often the best way to achieve this, both for using and maintaining a saw, but you don't need to get tickets. This means you could go down the route of either a formal course, or equally something less formal, either with a recognised trainer or with someone suitably experienced.

 

Alec

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One consideration might be what you are using the woodland for.

 

If it's small diameter coppice (e.g. hazel) then you are likely to need to need to work on you knees anyway, and each individual branch will be small enough not to move out of the way when it's cut free. Alternatively, if it's amenity then you may not need to do much felling. Woodland grown trees also tend to be tall and straight with little or no crown, so less of an issue breaking them down as once felled and the top removed they are less likely to roll.

 

If you are cutting up for firewood, you can probably break down into sections you can extract, but you will need to take into account the handling issues.

 

If it's big stuff and you want to try chainsaw milling, I always end up doing this on my knees anyway! With a winch set-up, you would be at very little disadvantage, although a second pair of hands to help extract boards and beams would be very useful (which is no different to anyone else doing it).

 

Working alone in the woods isn't advisable anyway (although quite a few people do it, myself included) so in practice if you work with someone else, either a friend, paid help or for a share in the extracted product, that should take care of the few jobs you can't do.

 

Worth noting that, for your own site as a hobby, you don't formally need training. That's not to say it's not a very good idea to ensure that you know what you are doing, and training is often the best way to achieve this, both for using and maintaining a saw, but you don't need to get tickets. This means you could go down the route of either a formal course, or equally something less formal, either with a recognised trainer or with someone suitably experienced.

 

Alec

 

Good post Alec.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

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