Stuck bolt!

[Macpherson]

yep, oxy-acetylene , the universal spanner, good luck.

[fonzy]

Ring spanner on the bolt with a constant good amount of pressure on it whilst someone else "taps" the end with a hammer.

 

As said heat on the femail threads will help

[TGB]

I presume you've tried the obvious; turn the bolts clockwise to partcially tighten, before attempting to loosen.

 

Together with above but a good soak with penetrating oil first, leave and then quick blast with a bit more, before attempting the tighten & loosening.

 

Heat with decent blowtorch, then ratchet the thing off. If it goes all honey-shaped. You'll just have to drill and Helicoil.

Edited July 16, 2014 by TGB

[treequip]

I presume you've tried the obvious; turn the bolts clockwise to partcially tighten, before attempting to loosen.

 

Together with above but a good soak with penetrating oil first, leave and then quick blast with a bit more, before attempting the tighten & loosening.

 

Heat with decent blowtorch, then ratchet the thing off. If it goes all honey-shaped. You'll just have to drill and Helicoil.

 

Just put a new drum on it

[TGB]

Just put a new drum on it

Good suggestion that; better than mine.

[GreenGui]

Before going the Oxy route, try 50/50 acetone/auto trans oil mix. Paste in on a few times and leave to soak for a couple of hours - has never failed me yet. Gave up on penetrating oil years ago.

[Treewolf]

You're sure it's not a left hand thread?

 

I am not familiar with the LM162 but many commercial vehicles have LH threads on the NS wheelnuts. Fooled me completely when (as a 17yo) I bought a twin wheel Transit!

 

If the nuts really are that tight you're going to need to replace the studs (at least) anyway so shearing them off really isn't such a problem. I'd go for a 3/4" or 1" drive socket and breaker bar and just go for it.

[MaxwellArb]

I serviced Ifors for 5 yrs, it's not going to be a LH thread. Agree with those who have suggested hitting the bolt with a hammer, a shock works better than pen oil in this application. Same goes for when using a breaker bar, give it a good jerk. Also, heating up

the drum will not do your bearings one bit of good. Put the wheel bolts back in with a bit of copper grease on the thread to make your life easier when they next have to come off.

 

Sent from my D6503 using Arbtalk mobile app

[Macpherson]

I serviced Ifors for 5 yrs, it's not going to be a LH thread. Agree with those who have suggested hitting the bolt with a hammer, a shock works better than pen oil in this application. Same goes for when using a breaker bar, give it a good jerk. Also, heating up

the drum will not do your bearings one bit of good. Put the wheel bolts back in with a bit of copper grease on the thread to make your life easier when they next have to come off.

Yep, I`m not suggesting a heating to the point of roasting the bearings, but a bit of heat applied quickly along with a whack usually works for me, but it`s the quick precise heating with the oxy that gets the two different bits moving and the separation lets the oil penetrate into the crack. In my work I couldn`t be without oxy-acetylene, cheers

[Joel77]

I'm only in essex (SS4 area) if you can't do yourself, just it bring to my yard I'll get it off in a few seconds with my 1" drive petrol nut runner