Mechanical Chain sharpeners

[Tim Stobart Tree Surgery]

Hi, I've recently had 4 saws snap, mangle or just wear out chains, which has led to me having the pleasure of new chains on most of my saws. It has made me wonder if whether the grinder type sharpeners you can get give as good a sharpen as a new chain? Or am I right to carry on huddled over my saws with a packet of files!

 

If they are worth using for general chainsaws, are there any machines to avoid (I've seen an old faithful one for about £70 which seems like a bargain), or is it worth getting a decent (Stihl) one?

 

Cheers

[doobin]

Neither. They're for resurrecting buggered chains quickly, to a state a DIYer would say they're sharp. If you have multiple chains in multiple stages of wear, you will always need to hand finish them to get a cut you will be happy with (as you're a pro).

 

Rob D's 12v Granberg sharpener has potential, as you can set the top plate, side plate and depth. Trouble is the stones wear unevenly and clog easily, and it's hard to tell when you're reached the depth stop. Very nice and quick for well-shaped depth gauges though.

 

To be blunt (pun intended) I find a fresh file quicker. I use the Granberg on the 20"+ bars as it's worth the setup time then.

[Stubby]

I think you can get a better edge with a file . If you have extensive damage then they can help remove it quickly but always finish with a file personally .

 

Midhurst internet seems quicker than Lavant !

[Dean Lofthouse]

Snapping chains is a little worrying, I,ve never had a snapped chain.

 

We have a bench mount grinder which I only really use on big chains, they are excellent for getting your tooth lengths all a precise even length.

[Rob D]

Hi, I've recently had 4 saws snap, mangle or just wear out chains, which has led to me having the pleasure of new chains on most of my saws. It has made me wonder if whether the grinder type sharpeners you can get give as good a sharpen as a new chain? Or am I right to carry on huddled over my saws with a packet of files!

 

 

Snapping chains almost always = knackered guide bar and/or knackered drive sprocket.

 

 

A worn drive sprocket and guidebar can be used way way after they should be - but really they should be regularly replaced.

 

 

Factory ground chains are actually not as sharp as you can actually do yourself with a file - they feel lovely to use as all the teeth are the same length and all the depth guages are the same height...

 

 

[Tim Stobart Tree Surgery]

Snapping chains almost always = knackered guide bar and/or knackered drive sprocket.

 

 

A worn drive sprocket and guidebar can be used way way after they should be - but really they should be regularly replaced.

 

 

Factory ground chains are actually not as sharp as you can actually do yourself with a file - they feel lovely to use as all the teeth are the same length and all the depth guages are the same height...

 

 

 

Aye, the one that snapped was worn down beyond it's wear mark on the chain links, I'd not noticed last time I'd stripped it down. I think it's the drive sprockets, they're due to be changed.

[Rob D]

Aye, the one that snapped was worn down beyond it's wear mark on the chain links, I'd not noticed last time I'd stripped it down. I think it's the drive sprockets, they're due to be changed.

 

 

And I expect the bars are due as well - check for chain slop in the bar - when you next get new chains get a new drive sprocket and bar at the same time.

 

 

[Andrew McEwan]

Have you tried the Husqvarna combi gauges Tim? Good for maintaining angles through the life of the chain.

[forest tink]

crap chain will break everytime,i tried a titan chain for a laugh and it actually broke after half an hour after getting put on the saw,stick to the big 3 makers