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Ms200t running problems


jjll
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Hi, just trying to cover as much as possible before I give up and give the saw into the repair shop.

 

The saw has had running problems for the past few weeks. It's had a fairly new air filter and fuel filter, roughly how often do people changer theirs?

I have stripped down the carb and made sure the small gauze is clear of crap.

The running problems it from cold starts. First the saw wouldn't stay running and I had a fiddle with the carb screws, and ended up giving up. After I had probably flooded the engine. After a an hour or so if leaving it, the saw seemed to run ok, I did tweet the carb screws to at this pout so it would run well.

Now every time I start in the morning I alsmost have to flood the engine before if will think about ticking over and running ok.

Is there anything else I can check or change that would be an obvious first thing to do before I send it in to the repair shop?

I will change the air and fuel filters just in case this could be a problem.

Cheers for any feedback

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Metering arm could be set incorrectly and or there is a diaphragm that can easily be put in the wrong way round I seem to remember spud saying ?? He is your best bet on this one ....

 

I have seen a few carbs where the diaphragm spacer hasn't been fitted between the carb body and the diaphragm.

 

I have also seen the pumping diaphragm and the spacer gasket being back to front but less likely with the polyester type ones.

 

If the saw won't start whan cold then it may be lack of fuel, bad carb adjustment or the fast idle setting not working correctly.

 

Put the carb back on H&L screws one turn out (assuming the H screw isn't capped) and then start it. If it pops on choke and then wont start in three pulls on "fast idle" then hold the throttle fully open and pull over the saw with your left hand.

 

Once started, set the idle and see if it revs out or idles correctly.

 

Let us know what the symptoms are - I need a bit more info on what is happening when it is running - it may be a lightly seized engine causing low compression and starting issues - measuring the compression would be good, inspecting the piston is difficult on these machines!

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I will try that.

I have screwed the carb screws back in and turned them out by the number next to them.

The diaphragm in the carb has been put back the same way as it came out so would only be the wrong way if it was from the start. It's been running fine for until recently.

I don't know a huge amount about engines so bear with me if I ask obvious questions.

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How can this be checked? And is it a easy fix? I'm looking to keep repair costs down to a minimum by doing as much as I can myself, if there are various potential problems, would it be better to just send it to get repaired?

At the moment it does still run after starting as mentioned so it's still getting used, but I know running it as it is probably isn't doing it much good.

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If compression is down, you will lack torque in the cut and it will get progressively worse as the saw gets hot with it being near impossible to start when hot.

 

Leaking crank seals will make the max revs soar out of control and it will hold on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut - there may also be some bogging in the mid range.

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It seems to be ok running cutting and starting when hot, it's the initial start which is causing the problems. I will try what was mentioned with the carb screws.

From fiddling with them before, once it's started and warmed up I have been able to tweek them so it idles and runs ok. It's when I come to start it the next morning it's a right pain.

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It seems to be ok running cutting and starting when hot, it's the initial start which is causing the problems. I will try what was mentioned with the carb screws.

From fiddling with them before, once it's started and warmed up I have been able to tweek them so it idles and runs ok. It's when I come to start it the next morning it's a right pain.

 

Not being funny, two things - is the choke flap closing fully when you engage the choke - you can see this by removing the air filter. Sometimes the linkage jumps off the choke.

 

Second - is the "fast idle" locking in position - sometimes the throttle mech gets broken stopping the throttle locking in the fast idle position - many just hold the throttle open on starting when this happens.

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It seems to be ok running cutting and starting when hot, it's the initial start which is causing the problems. I will try what was mentioned with the carb screws.

From fiddling with them before, once it's started and warmed up I have been able to tweek them so it idles and runs ok. It's when I come to start it the next morning it's a right pain.

 

Tip a bit of fuel on the filter then try starting it or block the filter with a rag to keep the air out while you pull it over then start it on fast idle and let it warm up.

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