Bio chainsaw Oil: Oregon Arborol Plus

[Stere]

Anyone using this & if so is it any good. Seems very cheap but there must be some catch. (apart it from the freezing bit)

 

I googled it but can't find any feeback from people who are actually using it etc.

 

For sale @ F R Jones and Son

 

http://http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products-page/oregon/oils-lubricants-and-cleaners/oregon-arborol-plus-bio-degradable-5-litre-chain-oil/

[Little Al]

The logging company that I service saws for in SW France have to use bio oil when cutting on any non private land they have used Arborol which is mixed with water 25% oil /75% water which produces a milky liquid. if you are not using your saw/s every day I would suggest you drain out the Arborol & run through a small amount of ordinary chain oil to prevent the possibility of rust forming. the bars seemed to run cooler & there did not seem to be any more wear on bar/chain than when using standard bar oil. The cost here is only comparable if buying in quantities of 4 or more litres, but the usage involved here makes that OK. however we have now sourced a bio, oil only, at a cheaper price than the Arborol so we have stopped using it

[corylus]

I almost always use bio but if the saws are idle for a month or two, you have to free the chains up manually before starting up as they have become 'stuck' to the bar. This has happened with Oregon and latterly Husky bio.

 

Has anyone else had these problems? I'm thinking of using normal cooking oil as it's cheaper and most who use it say it's fine. Probably wouldn't be any more of a problem than my current bio?

[HertsWood]

We work in SSSI woodlands where the impact to the ground has to be nearly zero. So we use Stihl BioChain Oil - it isn't cheap but can be left in the saws for long periods.

 

 

Sent from my iPad protected by bombproof Lifeproof Case

[MattyF]

Never had that problem with chains sticking, I have been mixing normal bio with rapeseed oil though so it still has some tacking agent and the results on long bars have not been too good, lots of heat and chain stretch , if it was pure rape seed I image the problem worse but it could be an oil issue on the 395.

[daltontrees]

I have been using Arborol almost exclusively for Husq 346s 357, 455, 181 Stihl 271, 230. Never a problem. After sitting for a while in the saw it looks awful but the saw vibrations turn it back into a smooth emulsion almost right away. Also never freezes on me, if anything the oil tank is usually steaming a little. Definitely cools the bar. Officially it's a 1:5 dilution but I usually use it at 1:3.

Ridiculously cheap, you can carry 5L in the truck, and that's got you 30L anywhere there's clean water.

 

I've never had a stuck chain with it.

[MattyF]

My bad I should of read the title of this thread as I thought it was purely about bio oil! I got a load of this for trial but never used it.. I think there's some still in the workshop.

Interested to hear more views on it though.

[corylus]

I have been using Arborol almost exclusively for Husq 346s 357, 455, 181 Stihl 271, 230. Never a problem. After sitting for a while in the saw it looks awful but the saw vibrations turn it back into a smooth emulsion almost right away. Also never freezes on me, if anything the oil tank is usually steaming a little. Definitely cools the bar. Officially it's a 1:5 dilution but I usually use it at 1:3.

 

Ridiculously cheap, you can carry 5L in the truck, and that's got you 30L anywhere there's clean water.

 

 

 

I've never had a stuck chain with it.

 

 

Sorry if I'm being a bit slow.....so you dilute bio with water?..............

 

Just been on Oregon website....all is clear!

Edited February 20, 2014 by corylus

[corylus]

Can anyone post a link/ suggestion to a thread some time back about the use of veg cooking oil vs bio and std?

 

Just done a search but found nowt.

[wyk]

Been using 100% rapeseed/vegie oil for years without a single problem. But, I rarely cut below freezing, and my saws never sit for long.