The Mower Bench

[GardenKit]

Bit of a pathetic question compared to the other info on this thread so sorry about that:blushing:

 

I am trying to replace the throwplate on my harrier 48. I am really struggling to remove the bolts that are on the underside (hopefully shown on attached picture). I can't get a socket on to the bolts, would this be because the plastic has worn and closed the gap up? Any ideas on a way I can get these undone, I have tried to hammer the socket on but it didn't work (maybe should have tried slightly harder but was scared about breaking something)

Those bolts can be tricky to get a grip on. You will need a very good 10mm 1/4 drive socket. If the socket has a bit of a 'lead' into the hex then grind a bit off the end of the socket so the max amount of hex engages with the shallow bolt head.

 

If the socket is thick walled then you may need to grind down the outer diameter as well in order to fit into the plastic recess.

 

Hope this is clear.

[karlton]

Hi Gardenkit, thanks for the quick reply.

 

Yes that all makes sense, It does seem that the socket is just slightly to big. Rather then grinding the socket I have down would it be possible to buy a "slimline" set? Not sure if there is such a thing? I can just see my self trying to grind the one I have down and it all going horribly wrong.

[BILLSMOWERS]

Bit of a pathetic question compared to the other info on this thread so sorry about that:blushing:

 

I am trying to replace the throwplate on my harrier 48. I am really struggling to remove the bolts that are on the underside (hopefully shown on attached picture). I can't get a socket on to the bolts, would this be because the plastic has worn and closed the gap up? Any ideas on a way I can get these undone, I have tried to hammer the socket on but it didn't work (maybe should have tried slightly harder but was scared about breaking something)

use a 1/4" drive socket set

[Warners]

use a 1/4" drive socket set

 

Yep.... 1/4 drive sockets have a thinner wall so will fit the bolt head better....

[Warners]

[GardenKit]

That is a very neat job Warners and will pay off.

 

Those covers have always been rubbish, just like many other Hayter bits, and they just do not do anything to improve it.

 

Crazy

[mikerecike]

 

Nice job.quality:thumbup:

 

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app

[mikerecike]

Bit of a pathetic question compared to the other info on this thread so sorry about that:blushing:

 

I am trying to replace the throwplate on my harrier 48. I am really struggling to remove the bolts that are on the underside (hopefully shown on attached picture). I can't get a socket on to the bolts, would this be because the plastic has worn and closed the gap up? Any ideas on a way I can get these undone, I have tried to hammer the socket on but it didn't work (maybe should have tried slightly harder but was scared about breaking something)

 

Could you grind a slot into the heads and then use a big flat head driver.

My fave tool for stuck bolts plastic head or steel are a pair of knipex end cutters. i dig the sharp corners in and then grip and turn at a radius to the head with lots of leverage.

 

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app

[mikerecike]

LEAKDOWN TESTING

Who does it?

What tool do you use?Technique?

How can you find TDC on a mower to ensure valves are closed without removing the head?

 

Do you focus more on what the dial says or what you can hear coming from the mower?

 

Would this technique flag up a failing crank shaft oil seal? Before the oil starts to leak.

 

Don't want to push my luck with Barrie but he sure makes a good vid tutorial.

 

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app

[GardenKit]

Later...