Autotune vs M-Tronic

[Pinkfoot]

What is the difference and which is better?

[Eddy_t]

M-tronic is the old autotune, it's literally as simple as that, stihl have the tech on lease from husqvarna.

 

 

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[SawTroll]

M-tronic is the old autotune, it's literally as simple as that, stihl have the tech on lease from husqvarna.

 

 

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Yes, but not the newest version.

[Old Mill Tree Care]

M-tronic is the old autotune, it's literally as simple as that, stihl have the tech on lease from husqvarna.

 

 

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I'm not sure if I can believe that because m Stihl dealer didn't tell me this when I asked him that question in Saturday.

 

Hahahaha!

 

 

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[TGB]

Husky's 'Autotune' is the newer stuff yes. But Stihl's 'M-Tronic' is the easiest to live with. Both H' & S' state calibration when new, plus recalibrating when changing altitude by 1000ft, changing an air filter, change of fuel type, etc., (Whether either actually need recalibrating at such times, well the jury's still diliberating.)

 

Calibration Prcedures

Husqvarna

Run the saw at full power, with bar fully buried and under load in "thick log" for 3 to 5 minutes, without letting the revs. off at any time.

 

Stihl

Remove bar & chain, replace clutch cover for safety and run saw at idle for 30 seconds, without touching the throttle. Then switch off and refit bar & chain.

 

Which would you prefer to live with?

[Old Mill Tree Care]

I don't fancy running my 540t through a log for FIVE minutes!!

 

 

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[wyk]

Husky's 'Autotune' is the newer stuff yes. But Stihl's 'M-Tronic' is the easiest to live with. Both H' & S' state calibration when new, plus recalibrating when changing altitude by 1000ft, changing an air filter, change of fuel type, etc., (Whether either actually need recalibrating at such times, well the jury's still diliberating.)

 

Calibration Prcedures

Husqvarna

Run the saw at full power, with bar fully buried and under load in "thick log" for 3 to 5 minutes, without letting the revs. off at any time.

 

Stihl

Remove bar & chain, replace clutch cover for safety and run saw at idle for 30 seconds, without touching the throttle. Then switch off and refit bar & chain.

 

Which would you prefer to live with?

 

So, your question is would I rather carry on and do work with my chainsaw as it tunes itself, or fiddle with it and get no work done for a couple of minutes?

[woodyguy]

For Stihl, do you need to remove the bar and chain?

I seem to remember the manual saying just start and not touch the choke lever and run for a minute then turn off. Seems to run very well that way on the two mtronics I've got.

Do it every few months or if I've modded the exhaust!

[Andy fellows]

Sorry it might sound like a daft question, but how do you do it on fs 460?

[Stubby]

Husky's 'Autotune' is the newer stuff yes. But Stihl's 'M-Tronic' is the easiest to live with. Both H' & S' state calibration when new, plus recalibrating when changing altitude by 1000ft, changing an air filter, change of fuel type, etc., (Whether either actually need recalibrating at such times, well the jury's still diliberating.)

 

Calibration Prcedures

Husqvarna

Run the saw at full power, with bar fully buried and under load in "thick log" for 3 to 5 minutes, without letting the revs. off at any time.

 

Stihl

Remove bar & chain, replace clutch cover for safety and run saw at idle for 30 seconds, without touching the throttle. Then switch off and refit bar & chain.

 

Which would you prefer to live with?

 

The first one ( Husqvarna ) Basically get working . See how much more you have done whilst the Stihl bloke is pissing about with his bar and chain ....