post knockers

[Matthew Storrs]

Totally agree spikey , not often I find I need bigger than 200kg, and as you say combined with the rock spike most things go in pretty quickly. Think a bigger hammer without a rock spike is less effective than a smaller one with. But as Bryce says on his website at least with a big hammer, you don't have to use it full height so less wear on the machine (possibly?).

If been knocking 10 inch gateposts into riverbed pretty satisfactorily with the 200kg on the wrag, the rock spike helps them go in straight too.

Protech are definiatly good machines. Friend of mine had a tynman/kidd it literally shook itself to bits. It just came apart on one job and that was the end of it.

[Goaty]

My experience on the pretty good going arable plains of east yorkshire. Yes with the Bryce suma sometimes we only lift the weight up 1 or 2 foot and the posts are in in a couple of knocks. I have never needed a rockspike except maybe in concrete yards, ( How much do you spend on your knocker?)

 

As for posts per hour, I work with my wife she drives tractor I operate the Bryce. I haven't counted posts per hour, but if they are set out in approx required location and its not too dry. Probably 1 a minute is reasonable. Many claim machine gun rates, but,

 

how many blokes do they have?

 

How tidy is it?

 

How long can they go at it at that rate?

 

My philosophy is work well at a comfortable rate you can maintain. Get as decent a gear as your can cost effectively run. Do a good job. Im not in to the ondercut, brag, willy measuring contests either.

 

Just another point on hammer weights, long drops of smaller weights can splinter shatter posts, whereas a short solid dull thud, I've found less dangerous as the weight is being stopped after contact. When I used a smaller weight I found you send it and dont hold back.

 

Informative thread this and I like the frank assesment of machines. Btw I recently went to the Hayes engineering works in NZ I intend to start a thread with pictures at somepoint. Maybe tonight:001_smile: I really find my Hayes tensioners usuful especially when working alone.

Is there a show us what you use fencing tools thread yet?

[felixthelogchopper]

I have to say that the title of this thread is deeply misleading. I expected something entirely different. My wife even offered to contribute!

 

Glad I wasn't the only one.

[Goaty]

You lads have one track minds! Old mill treecare surfed dangerously close to being expelled on the fave girls thread along with other members on here, Heres the link for the disappointed.http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/lounge/3578-favorite-tv-girls-boys.html Steve is asking for suggestions for new things on the forum here.

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/68804-what-additions-would-you-like-see-arbtalk.html

[Goaty]

Back the thread with a slight derail. The Bryce one man machine mentioned early on in this thread, coupled with this would make the ultimate setup I think. I have been to see Alan who designed this and can say he is a very down to earth chap.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwYuQf3U6jA]ProFencer II in Action - YouTube[/ame]

[broonie]

I have to say that the title of this thread is deeply misleading. I expected something entirely different. My wife even offered to contribute!

 

me too lol..... dirty minded ???????

[Philip jones]

thanks for the infor Philip jones

[Aaron]

Back the thread with a slight derail. The Bryce one man machine mentioned early on in this thread, coupled with this would make the ultimate setup I think. I have been to see Alan who designed this and can say he is a very down to earth chap.

 

It is a very good bit of kit looking at it but am I right in thinking its around the 6k mark? Its a lot of money compared to the quick fencer, after all they do the same job and one wouldn't be much if any quicker than the other, its a lot of money to run some wire out. Certainly would be a luxury.

 

Aaron

[spikeymikey]

I have a wire unroller on my tracked machine which I can locate in 5 different places although it mainly stays in one, made from scrap. Im not a fan of pulling big stretches from one end especially if it is undulating and with lots of turns. I can buy gripples for £0.38/each and put a join in every 50m or so (using 100m ht rolls) its not expensive. That way I can do several hundred metres, tie it off properly both ends and then use the gripples to tension the netting. This way you can tweak the top/middle/bottom accordingly and get a nice even tight fence and I haven't used a wire clamp for 3 years or more. Also you can go back any time and retighten using your gripple tool if the fence gets damaged etc. All of the fences I put up are infinitely adjustable and I wouldn't have it any other way as things will inevitably move or get hit. With good quality ht 8 80 15 costing around £0.75/metre in 100m rolls is there a need for 500m rolls? but maybe im wrong?Quick fencers and alike are ok in my opinion if your doing pipeline work or similar when you want to whack it up quick but to get the best most even pull you need to pull from the middle or in several places along the line.

[Matthew Storrs]

I have a wire unroller on my tracked machine which I can locate in 5 different places although it mainly stays in one, made from scrap. Im not a fan of pulling big stretches from one end especially if it is undulating and with lots of turns. I can buy gripples for £0.38/each and put a join in every 50m or so (using 100m ht rolls) its not expensive. That way I can do several hundred metres, tie it off properly both ends and then use the gripples to tension the netting. This way you can tweak the top/middle/bottom accordingly and get a nice even tight fence and I haven't used a wire clamp for 3 years or more. Also you can go back any time and retighten using your gripple tool if the fence gets damaged etc. All of the fences I put up are infinitely adjustable and I wouldn't have it any other way as things will inevitably move or get hit. With good quality ht 8 80 15 costing around £0.75/metre in 100m rolls is there a need for 500m rolls? but maybe im wrong?Quick fencers and alike are ok in my opinion if your doing pipeline work or similar when you want to whack it up quick but to get the best most even pull you need to pull from the middle or in several places along the line.

 

Again, agreed. In my experiance I have got the most satisfactory and even tension from tensioning in the middle. I roll out to the middle and pull two boundary clamps together then join with either crimps or gripples. Same with barb/plain top wires. Personally, I don't like seeing hi tensile netting stapled/hammered home into a strainer to hold the tension, knots look neat and are far stronger

I think technique largely comes down to ground conditions and the layout of the fenceline. I fence mainly on Dartmoor and it is common that my fencing has to meander around huge granite boulders/over peat bogs. Not to mention fencing on top of the dreaded Devon banks. So I really don't think I would use a profencer/quickfencer much at all. For this reason I have found digger mounted knockers to be the most versatile being able to reach into dips/hollows, track over soft ground, and reach over walls top of banks etc. I converted one to fit my digger exactly how I wanted it,

On the other hand is the lowland/arable fencing which I'm rarely lucky enough to come across. Speed is of prime importance here given high work rates and larger competition. So I can totally see big side mounted knockers and wire unrollers being essential.

I like hearing about different setups, I spent quite a lot of money back in the summer on my wrag tractor mounted one, but to be honest I'm thinking about selling it with the tractor. Just doesn't seem to be the right machine for my work on the whole, (not the knocker, the tractor) usually too steep or wet for a tractor. A tracked one would be much better I think, at least I can control it on steep slopes and if it does go over I'm not on it:laugh1: