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Speed lines


SmudgeCTS
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Mike I climb trees and put them on the ground, sometimes they are lowered, sometimes they are speedlined and sometimes I just drop them. In nearly a decade of doing this I've managed to not kill myself and unbelievably I've never used or needed a computer to work out wether it's going to be ok

There is such a thing as overcomplicating things and I'm not really sure why your trying to play a game of oneupmanship by asking people who believe there is a similar and equally practical way of doing the job to solve your rigging calculations. You seem to enjoy alienating people by preaching how superior you are

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Tie a rope to the tree above you for simple tasks. Don't even bother with slings and krabs.

 

Just cut brash with a stub at some point, chuck it on the line and at some point it will zip down the line and catch on the stub.

 

The above method it highly complicated and took me all of 2 seconds to master once I was first introduced to it. You can even balance logs on the line if you wish.

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use a supper static rope

tension with a grcs or SW for rapid tensioning/ tensioning and plenty of power

use a proper tandem pulley or a twin pulley'd carrage

have lots of slings & krabs & probably a rigging plate

watch the vectors! you may need a very long traverse line to ensure the timber is compressed axially

depending on the job consider setting up a reeve, an English one is best

 

forces involved can be MASSIVE consider using a computer program if you wish to pre tension the traverse line before securing 'packages' to it.

If not ensure that you use a tension aid which will not overload the system, place the package on an un-tensioned traverse line then apply tension before lowering the package.

 

if you know what you're doing lighter sections can be cut strait onto the tensioned traverse line but like i said make sure you understand the forces & maybe use a computer to get it all right

 

or better still get someone in to guide you through the job or seek training. i did a 3 day speed line course took weeks of revision to stop my head spinning!

 

Do you know it shows as well:laugh1:

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based on a 70 m traverse/track/ speedline

 

answer A (approximately) 1750kgf

answer B (approximately) 7000kgf!!!!!!

 

people complain that clients regard us as semi skilled gardeners and not professionals, i wonder why?

 

like the others said just keep it simple, cross your fingers & hope for the best

 

What relevance does that really have though?

 

You can't weigh a peice before sending it in the speed line

You can't measure the structural interegraty of the tree in every area the differencing forces are being applied, all you can do is judge. A true professional will be able to accurately judge what is a safe load and stay within the limits of his gear and the condition of the tree, and as he's working, adjust his judgement and equipment accordingly, will adjust his cuts to limit shock loading.

 

To the op, a simple speed line can be a rope tied of in the tree, tied off on a suitable anchor on the ground, sling/strop on the branch, and a carabiner to attach it to the line. Gravity does the rest. Even send it down on a stub if real simple

You can then add

pulleys instead of the crab running on the line

3-1 to tension the line

Simple tag line to control the decent down the line

Conventional lowering system to control the decent of the peice down the line

Winches to pre tension

The list is endless with a bit of imagination!

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I think this the first and only speed line we have ever done, and its nearly 5 years ago! It was a belt and braces job where we slackened the speed line each time and dropped the load onto the lowering line before re-tensioning the speed line again. Its rare that this level of rigging is required on any job, the hobbs does not see much action, for us any way.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaCx-g-L1ek]speedline - YouTube[/ame]

 

By a weird coincidence we are working on that very tree tomorrow, It will be nice to see how its doing…..

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