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Buying advice


BeanWoody
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Looking to buy my first saw, to be used for small tree felling and related ground work along with using for hedge work and log cutting.

 

For my course I hired a 50cc Makita (not sure on the model) with a 15"bar, but been doing some work for a friend using their MS181c with a 13"bar (I think).

 

Ive heard from varying people that Sthil's arent as good as they used to be, yet on this and other forums there still seems a definite split between the two.

 

Prefer the saws where I have to use a tool to control the chain tension etc rather than the toolless systems, and seem to have issues with the chain oil cap when Ive been using the Sthil saw with the "odd" locking system. Would probably go for a 15" or 18" bar as seems to be a size for all round use.

 

Been looking online at;

 

MS 271 Husquvarna 545 Makita DCS5030-38 (this might be what I hired)

MS 291 Husquvarna 555

MS 261 Husquvarna 550xp

 

Any advice on these or other saws, plus any good advice for when I go to a dealer to have a "hands on" look.

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Don't overlook the MS250. Much cheaper than the 261, lighter too. Not a 'pro' saw but a good saw and will run a Picco Micro chain (1.1mm if you want!) which means it will keep up with an MS261. 12" 1.1mm bar is vicious on it. You can also run up to 16" without changing the sprocket to .325. Just make sure you order it as 3/8P, not .325.

 

I found the MS261 heavy and clumsy, and thought 'why not just have an MS362'

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you say doing hedges is this laying if so my humble opion is a 40cc plus saw is a bit on drastic side for this job i went and got a ms170 for hedges and have a 40cc echo and a 576xp husky. the 170 is a ideal tool for hedges as its only ot a 12" bar. downside it has a pico chain and blunts quick.

as for a bigger saw oleo mac efco good saws . 550 is a cracking saw in the husky range light but powerfull

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Don't overlook the MS250. Much cheaper than the 261, lighter too. Not a 'pro' saw but a good saw and will run a Picco Micro chain (1.1mm if you want!) which means it will keep up with an MS261. 12" 1.1mm bar is vicious on it. You can also run up to 16" without changing the sprocket to .325. Just make sure you order it as 3/8P, not .325.

 

I found the MS261 heavy and clumsy, and thought 'why not just have an MS362'

 

Hi & welcome,

 

+1 from me, I have the 250 with 18 inch bar, it cuts very well, would prefer a shorter bar TBH as I now have a 365 for bigger stuff.

 

I would avoid the 'ergo start' nonsense if you buy a Stihl, IMO its a waste of time & more to go wrong.

 

Bon chance

 

 

N

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+2 for the ms250.

Played about with mine with mild porting, muffler mod and better carb running a 14" on 3/8 l/pic full chisel and its certainly no homeowners saw anymore.

The biggest issue ive seen with many if the brake drum bearing failing and eating the plastic saw body so I would always advise to replace the bearing if buying secondhand for the price of a few quid.

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+2 for the ms250.

Played about with mine with mild porting, muffler mod and better carb running a 14" on 3/8 l/pic full chisel and its certainly no homeowners saw any more.

The biggest issue ive seen with many if the brake drum bearing failing and eating the plastic saw body so I would always advise to replace the bearing if buying second hand for the price of a few quid.

 

Hi, your remark about the bearing noted & agree shorter bar is better.

 

I know this isnt a pro saw, having a plastic engine case, but my son deciphered the codes stamped on the body & told me it was strong, high spec material.

 

Ive certainly given mine plenty of use, not the same daily grind a pro would but Ive certainly cut plenty of Oak & other hardwood.

 

Its also been revised to 251 version now, so should be more economical I think.

 

Otherwise its something like a 261

 

N

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As you say NFG the saw isn't a bad saw and I enjoy working on them (some don't)

Ive had 4 the past 6 mths that have had the bearing failure issue. The bearing collapses and the back edge of the drum cuts into the case and into the bar oiler gallery.

The thin edge of the drum spinning at umpteen RPM means it will cut thru a plastic case before you know it. Not a fault of it being a weak plastic case as you rightly say.

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As you say NFG the saw isn't a bad saw and I enjoy working on them (some don't)

Ive had 4 the past 6 mths that have had the bearing failure issue. The bearing collapses and the back edge of the drum cuts into the case and into the bar oiler gallery.

The thin edge of the drum spinning at umpteen RPM means it will cut thru a plastic case before you know it. Not a fault of it being a weak plastic case as you rightly say.

 

Hi,

 

4 in 6 months? That sounds very expensive, is this on a 250 or the later 251 & has it been reported to Stihl? - or is it blame the customer?

 

N

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