Couple of questions!!

[Quercus-90]

Hi all!

 

Recently I've been struggling with two things, and I'm hoping you guys can point me in the right direction!

 

1: snagging rope/lanyard on saw. When my saw is just hanging from my harness or the lanyard, I keep catching my rope! Did it today and I pretty unsure if I should keep using that particular rope now....!

 

2: when falling tall section of conni out when re topping etc I can't get the stems to jump clear like I can with deciduous woods. I've tried everything! Tiny gob, big gob, back cut higher than gob, nick the sides......

 

Thanks everyone!

 

 

 

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[Stephen Blair]

1, keep your rope directly below you at all times, good rope management is essential in tree climbing. It might be repetitive to keep pulling it up and resetting it below as you move around the crown.

If your saw is dangling anymore than 2 feet below you it's going to tangle.

 

2 Conny won't sail through the air as its a big sail, it won't jump unless there's tension and you can cut quick. I tend to fell longer stuff at along the outside edge , as it lands back on the hedge, I keep cutting I tend to swipe and throw the butt. Simply judge it as you go until you get the feel of how the tree is playing, if you have to go smaller, go smaller.

[marcus_arb]

Hi all!

 

Recently I've been struggling with two things, and I'm hoping you guys can point me in the right direction!

 

1: snagging rope/lanyard on saw. When my saw is just hanging from my harness or the lanyard, I keep catching my rope! Did it today and I pretty unsure if I should keep using that particular rope now....!

 

2: when falling tall section of conni out when re topping etc I can't get the stems to jump clear like I can with deciduous woods. I've tried everything! Tiny gob, big gob, back cut higher than gob, nick the sides......

 

Thanks everyone!

 

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

Try doing an upside down gob cut which gives you time to flip the butt over as it falls making it 'jump' over the edge and land with the butt facing the right way for dragging

[Steve Bullman]

nick the sides......

 

Make the side cuts deeper. They're not token cuts

[gand]

I always do a "upside down" gob cut then use a lower back cut always works for me. As for catching the rope clip it up, only takes a second

[Ant-h83]

I always clip the saw back to my harness, saves the ropes and the saw, a petzl caritool is useful for this,

I'm with the upside down gob cut too

[colemanjessenz]

if you can do this safely you can clear quite a distance . when you are finishing your back cut and its starting to move put your chain break on , clip the saw and push the piece being felled just as gob commits and the hinge breaks, using these forces together you can move a piece quite far.

 

a very sharp angled scarf makes the piece jump a little too.

 

dont do it this way if your not confident and if your clutching your saw as it can be a very dangerous way to do things .

 

Its one of those ones that you shouldn't do to often

Edited December 6, 2013 by colemanjessenz

[Arran Turner]

If you've got a 201 clip the scabbard back on every time your going to move. I've been doing this for a month and it is awesome really can't rate it enough. Will save you money in the long run and doesn't waste much time.

[Quercus-90]

Thanks for all the replies everyone!

 

Ok so I'm going to give the upside down gob a go, with a high back cut and see how I get on! Will also try deeper cuts to either side. I know Connie is very pliable and stringy! Just annoying when I can clear pretty much anything with deciduous wood.

 

I've got 2 carritools on tree motion so I'll give clipping my rope up a go, I already do this when spiking up something.

Think I also need to practice better rope management, tend to sort it out once it tangled! Rather than preventing it becoming tangled.

 

And I did have a 201! And loved the scabbard..... Shame the rest of the saw was poo! Might see if I can get one of the scabbards to fit my 200.

 

 

Thanks so much everyone! Great advice as always!

 

 

 

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[Paul Jenks]

As many of the above answers.

Also, if the hedge is quite wide, I'll strip a reasonable section of the trunk above the felling cut. Tight gob, deep side cuts just below to stop it tearing and hanging on and cut right through the hinge once it's on the move. Ditch the saw and use both hands to send it on its way. By stripping some of the lower growth off, if it doesn't quite have the 'launch' to clear the outgrown sides of the hedge the butt should not snag and will get to the ground without ripping off those precious side branches that'll make the finished hedge look so nice.