Chain sharpening

[Rod]

i used to have a 12v orogan sharpener they are good for removing lots of dammage if you have hit stone or metal the one i had had a angled guard and this set the depth aswell its kind of like using a file with a guide fitted

 

it dose heat the teeth and you can cut a lot of v quick if you arn't carefull and you still have to do the rakers

 

when i was useing mine i was in the lakes removeing regen and was constantly hitting stone and getting through a chain a week ish

i would say it was far easier than a file

 

but i normally use a file now sometimes wish i had an electric one still:001_smile:

[Sciadopitys]

:mad1:Yesterday i had a 30inch bar on the 066 and i hit nails 3 times, and as Dean said i wasted over an hour sharpening the saw, basically the chain was a mess all 3 times and took longer than normal to sharpen up. Sharpening the saw by hand is not a problem, i am not the fastest in the world, but i do sharpen it properly, just was wondering if a mechanical sharpener was gonna save me time.

 

Some people have said that mechanical sharpeners do not get the saw as sharp!?!?! How sharp do they get it? Must be ok or they wouldn't be used at all!?! And do u really need a chain 100% razor sharp if the liklihood is you'll be sharpening it again by the time you knock another ring off?

 

Can u notice a considerable difference between hand filing and machine sharpening Dean??

 

I hate nails!!!

[Rod]

i couldnt see a diferance but i maybe had it set up well?

 

most peolple seem to be talking about bench sharpeners mine was like a dremmel i suppose more human imput like a file

 

like you say it just needs to cut 90% if its going into another nail ridden but

 

:sneaky2:

[Dean Lofthouse]

 

Can u notice a considerable difference between hand filing and machine sharpening Dean??

 

 

They are quick and you get all the teeth exactly the same length without having to measure. I certainly notice the difference it's like a new chain out of the box.

 

If you want to be fussy and get a really good edge you can finish off by hand with two or three really light strokes to get a really fine edge. But the main advantage of mechanical is getting the teeth evenly sized.

 

You don't heat the teeth up if you bounce the head, or just do quick light cuts.

[Big 'Ammer]

They are quick and you get all the teeth exactly the same length without having to measure. I certainly notice the difference it's like a new chain out of the box.QUOTE]

 

There it is in a nutshell.

 

Thats how sharp you can get them with a grinder, after all, new chains come machine sharpened.

 

I find a new chain cuts way better once its been hand filed twice and the rakers re-profiled.

 

Like I said earlier, for repeated cutting of contaminated timber a grinder is probably the most efficient way of keeping the job going, on site.

 

Other than removing the contaminated timber in larger sections using machinery, therefore avoiding cutting in the first place.

[Khriss]

To be honest if you put the practice in you should be able to sharpen a 25' 066 in well under 5 minuets.

 

Nope

 

An I'm the best saw sharpener in the world.....

[Sciadopitys]

http://www.all-about-the-home.co.uk/baby-jolly-12v-bar-mounted-chainsaw-sharpener--grinder-112-p.asp

 

Anyone tried one of these? Or can recomme nd a better / similar machine?

 

Cheers for all replies so far!

[Tom D]

If one of your workers blunts a chain, make him sharpen it, if he makes a mess of it make him do it again. He'll never learn otherwise, either to sharpen properly or to cut without blunting.

[tommer9]

Nope

 

An I'm the best saw sharpener in the world.....

 

we cant both be......LOL:001_tongue:

 

 

 

 

 

BTW i dont see the problem- try a 48" bar with 10 degree filing angle inm a mill milling 3'6" diameter sweet chestnut.........EVERY cut requires a sharpen:thumbdown:

[Rod]

neither of you can be