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Show us your Arb Diggers please.


Stephen Blair

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Eddie

 

Thanks so much for your advice I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

I totally understand what you are saying about the machine being specialised to parallel digging and so is a disadvantage for other applications in tree work.

Being the first machine I've owned I was afraid of buying a bad machine that might need repair etc and so bought this because it was an hitachi with low hours and had been advised by plant guys I know that they are a great machine so ended up getting it! Money was obviously the major factor in the purchase also because if it wasn't I wouldn't have bought the knuckle boom.

The selector grab I think is amazing as you say but I just can't afford one!

I won't be going down the mulcher root, just a flail for bramble and ground scrub, not trees/wood. As you said Eddie, I think a converted hedge cutter head would be realistic to my needs.

A tree shear would be great for some of the work we get as it could cut along roadside or lower trees/hedges but nothing large.

I'm gonna use the machine to help us on larger tree jobs with the grapple and land rake and hope that it is hired out maybe just as a digger because locally you can't get a 5-7 ton machine without the hassle of having an account with a large plant company. I hope the machine can pay it's way that way and we have a machine to help with tree work.

Thanks again Eddie for your advice, what you are saying is right, If it goes well with this machine then I would love to hopefully upgrade in the distant future. I'm only a young buck! Ha

 

Lee

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Eddie

 

Thanks so much for your advice I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

I totally understand what you are saying about the machine being specialised to parallel digging and so is a disadvantage for other applications in tree work.

Being the first machine I've owned I was afraid of buying a bad machine that might need repair etc and so bought this because it was an hitachi with low hours and had been advised by plant guys I know that they are a great machine so ended up getting it! Money was obviously the major factor in the purchase also because if it wasn't I wouldn't have bought the knuckle boom.

The selector grab I think is amazing as you say but I just can't afford one!

I won't be going down the mulcher root, just a flail for bramble and ground scrub, not trees/wood. As you said Eddie, I think a converted hedge cutter head would be realistic to my needs.

A tree shear would be great for some of the work we get as it could cut along roadside or lower trees/hedges but nothing large.

I'm gonna use the machine to help us on larger tree jobs with the grapple and land rake and hope that it is hired out maybe just as a digger because locally you can't get a 5-7 ton machine without the hassle of having an account with a large plant company. I hope the machine can pay it's way that way and we have a machine to help with tree work.

Thanks again Eddie for your advice, what you are saying is right, If it goes well with this machine then I would love to hopefully upgrade in the distant future. I'm only a young buck! Ha

 

Lee

 

 

Lee,

i know exactly where you're coming from, it's just with a step back and rethink you could be into a nice KX161-3 for pretty much the same money, and she'll be almost ready to go?

The kx161-3 is totally bombproof and would in reality perform just as well as the Hitachi you have on the average tree work.

No issues whatsoever with the unit you have bought, and someone who has more applications demanding the parallel offset would be well happy to take it off you.

 

You're spot on about targeting trustworthy local guys who simply don't want the hassle of opening accounts etc for a simple day or two's hire, but just watch the insurance side and everyone is clear who's paying what from the outset.

 

The very best of luck with it all and you can always PM me if you want any advice.

 

Eddie.

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The recent posts on this thread show exactly why people use forums and why personally I think arbtalk is fantastic. Testament to the good nature of those taking time to help others. Good work!

 

Now, Can anyone tell me the easiest/cheapest way of piping up a rotating grab on my yanmar b25v? Is it as simple as connect rotate into hammer circuit connections and use the foot pedal to rotate then use crowd ram pipe for grab? How much could I expect to rotate? Ie could I load 300kg logs onto the mill with it? It'll lift them fine but not sure how much work to rotate that weight?

 

Cheers for any advice.

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The recent posts on this thread show exactly why people use forums and why personally I think arbtalk is fantastic. Testament to the good nature of those taking time to help others. Good work!

 

Now, Can anyone tell me the easiest/cheapest way of piping up a rotating grab on my yanmar b25v? Is it as simple as connect rotate into hammer circuit connections and use the foot pedal to rotate then use crowd ram pipe for grab? How much could I expect to rotate? Ie could I load 300kg logs onto the mill with it? It'll lift them fine but not sure how much work to rotate that weight?

 

Cheers for any advice.

 

This has been covered quite a few times and there is pretty much a 50/50 split as to which way you do it?

No Right or Wrong in my eyes, as some prefer the extra control available through the bucket circuit to be utilised for the rotate which can be fierce, and utilise the pedal for the grab.

 

The more logical in my opinion is the grab on the bucket circuit, and to utilise a two way hammer/shear circuit for the rotate, but again just my preference.

 

It's all pretty straightforward, you just need to ensure the Hammer circuit is in fact two way, or you could run into additional hassles.

 

These will change the game a bit for a few, they are reasonably cheap adjustable flow valves that will allow setups to be fine tuned to give very precise control.

from the reports they are very good and at the price worth a look?

FLOW CONTROL VALVES WITHOUT CHECK

 

As for rotate power, you should have no power issues whatsoever for what you're describing?

 

 

Eddie.

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Ishoran, I use my selector grab for brambles and gorse, on small stuff I rip out and mash into a pile, even dig a hole every 20' and bury it, all job dependant and obviously discussed with customer.

Gorse aswell, find an opening, pull out by the roots and stack to burn or again just bury!

I'm not working on building sites so a gardener isn't going to get a surprise when he try's to dig a pond!

I use the grab for draining and ditching too if the ground allows!

It's great for pipe laying.

Don't just spend what you can just now, listen to Eddie, don't just say yes but!!!

Good luck😃

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Hello arb diggers!

 

I've just bought this hitachi ex75ur 2001 knuckle boom excavator and am in the process of trying to set it up for tree work.

I'm hoping through a number of contacts it will be hired out either as a digger or with specialist attachments such as, grapple, rake, ripper, flail, tree sheer etc.

I would expect the tree works it would be doing mostly will be urban so the rubber tracks suited me.

I would like to have a cage fitted to protect the operator/cab and it needs piping for any hydraulic attachments.

Can anyone advise me of what certificates are needed to operate it and if I am hiring it out with an operator, what paper work is required?

Any advise would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Lee

 

I think you have underestimated the industry if you recon digger work is domestic.

 

360's really come into their own on development sites

 

Have you got your Construction Plant Competence Scheme ticket? You cant get in a machine on site without one.

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I think you have underestimated the industry if you recon digger work is domestic.

 

360's really come into their own on development sites

 

Have you got your Construction Plant Competence Scheme ticket? You cant get in a machine on site without one.

 

No need whatsoever for the CPCS card to operate a machine.

 

That is the simple truth, the reality is far from it?

 

Basically as with any machinery the worst case scenario is when it all goes badly wrong, and you plus the person engaging your services would be tasked in proving you had adequate training and were competent to operate the machine.

How anyone wishes to do this is up to them?

You could call upon person after person to vouch and provide evidence of previous work etc, until they were satisfied, or you could simply reach for your CPCS card with the correct category for the machine, job done?

 

Anything in between is really all down to where you are working and what their policy is? Insurance may play a part in insisting that a particular type of training is held also.

 

The other forms can be other mainstream schemes like NPORS or FMOC, but In House training from a reputable trainer is perfectly acceptable if the person engaging you is happy to accept that.

Always get backed by a reputable training provider, as these will have to prove their competence to train plus evidence they undertook yours.

 

Just out of interest the CPCS cartel stronghold has recently been broken with all major contractors agreeing to accept NPORS scheme cards on their sites as equal to CPCS.

 

This should finally bring a little competition to the marketplace and end the conveyor belt of price hikes and changes to keep trainers in work.

 

If you're going the whole hog I'd advise CPCS still, but nothing wrong with a decent training provider doing you in house at a huge cost saving.

 

 

 

Eddie.

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I think you have underestimated the industry if you recon digger work is domestic.

 

360's really come into their own on development sites

 

Have you got your Construction Plant Competence Scheme ticket? You cant get in a machine on site without one.

 

Hi treequip,

 

Sorry I think you have miss read.

I said it was to be used mostly for urban tree work not domestic.

 

Lee

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No need whatsoever for the CPCS card to operate a machine.

 

That is the simple truth, the reality is far from it?

 

Basically as with any machinery the worst case scenario is when it all goes badly wrong, and you plus the person engaging your services would be tasked in proving you had adequate training and were competent to operate the machine.

How anyone wishes to do this is up to them?

You could call upon person after person to vouch and provide evidence of previous work etc, until they were satisfied, or you could simply reach for your CPCS card with the correct category for the machine, job done?

 

Anything in between is really all down to where you are working and what their policy is? Insurance may play a part in insisting that a particular type of training is held also.

 

The other forms can be other mainstream schemes like NPORS or FMOC, but In House training from a reputable trainer is perfectly acceptable if the person engaging you is happy to accept that.

Always get backed by a reputable training provider, as these will have to prove their competence to train plus evidence they undertook yours.

 

Just out of interest the CPCS cartel stronghold has recently been broken with all major contractors agreeing to accept NPORS scheme cards on their sites as equal to CPCS.

 

This should finally bring a little competition to the marketplace and end the conveyor belt of price hikes and changes to keep trainers in work.

 

If you're going the whole hog I'd advise CPCS still, but nothing wrong with a decent training provider doing you in house at a huge cost saving.

 

 

 

Eddie.

 

Well like I said

 

You cant get in a machine on site without one.

 

For the vast majority of sites, and that's where that machine will need to be, no card no job

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