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stihl 075av ??s


pete23
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evening all.

 

today I got me hands on a 075, very grubby, as its been sat on a shelf in a storeroom for a number of years, I was told that is was a runner when last used, in surprisingly good nick for its age.

 

now then.

 

is there anything I should be aware of before I give it a good clean and a service??

 

what is the cc of the engine of one of these??

 

last one, what sort of dosh would one expect one of these to sell for either on flea bay or privately??

reason being im after a secondhand lighter saw with a 20"bar so thought the funds off the 075 could go to something a tad more modern.

 

ive got a windblown 2ft ash to clear up so hoping to have a play with this 075 on that, never used a saw this big before:biggrin:

 

will get some pics up in a bit.

 

thanks.

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Dump any old fuel in it, it would benefit from checking the fuel lines - a new carb kit may be a worthwhile investment and check the fuel filter is OK.

 

The chain oil may have gone gloopy so flushing out the tank with fuel would be a good move.

 

There are a few on here hat run these, primarily for milling and that is where it's value is.

 

On ebay - £250 - £400 depending on condition.

 

111cc engine size!

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Model Profile: 075 AV

 

111cc basically the same as the newer 076 that replaced it apart from the oil filler cap.

I love them and got several. Bits are still available, I rebuilt several and they are easy to work on. Theres not much they wont cut. They haven't the speed of the newer bigger saws but the torque is tremendous, lean on one and it wont slow down like a newer big saw and quite happily pull a 4ft bar when needed although weight is the main factor, you wouldn't want to be using it all day.

 

I would recommend replacing the fuel line and impulse as they all always aged. Most had tillotson carbs but the very latest had walbro's fitted. They can give spark issues as they use a trigger mechanism behind the flywheel which is no longer available but theres an easy way around it when it happens. Many parts are shared with the 051 and the 510/760 cut off saws.

Prices vary, like everything it depends what someone wants to pay for it, They are well suited to milling. The long bars are what cost the pounds on these saws so that makes a difference in value.

Edited by wisecobandit
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075 and 076 were essentially the same saw - just had a different tank casing and all except the latest 075s were missing the lug on the crankcase needed to fit a chainbrake.

 

Very good milling saws - aim for £300 if you are selling the powerhead only, more with bar and decent chain, depending on length and whether it's a Duromatic or not.

 

Alec

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075 and 076 were essentially the same saw - just had a different tank casing and all except the latest 075s were missing the lug on the crankcase needed to fit a chainbrake.

 

Very good milling saws - aim for £300 if you are selling the powerhead only, more with bar and decent chain, depending on length and whether it's a Duromatic or not.

 

Alec

 

HI ALEC i think dad has a a v075 on a 30" bar saw he looking for sale in very good nick with new bar thanks jon

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evening.

 

had half hour to have a play with the 075 this eve.

 

drained the petrol and oil out, tanks look pretty clean, but will flush them out.

 

shall have it to bits proper at the weekend and give it a good clean, its a mess!!!

 

not that im ready, but whats the starting procedure of one of these??

 

also, as you look down on the saw bar pointing outwards, theres a switch on the left on/off.

switch on the right, choke. button on the right near spark plug, decomp. and theres a lever above the exhaust with a pos/neg, whats that all about??

 

thanks.

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not that im ready, but whats the starting procedure of one of these??

 

also, as you look down on the saw bar pointing outwards, theres a switch on the left on/off.

switch on the right, choke. button on the right near spark plug, decomp. and theres a lever above the exhaust with a pos/neg, whats that all about??

 

thanks.

 

The lever is the oil pump setting (no fiddly little screws underneath on this one).

 

Starting - choke on, starting switch on, decompression on if you feel so inclined (I never notice much difference). Grasp firmly and pull like you mean it. They don't have the same style of magnets as modern saws, so most of the kick is from the ignition system rather than the compression. Take it tentantively and it will rip the starter out of your hands so it's best to just go for it. This also means it's a 'proper' foot through the back handle, hand on the front hand grip start - no drop starting here!

 

As per normal, takes a few pulls to get some fuel through and then it will either 'cough', in which case choke off and try again, or it will actually start and run, in which case choke off when it starts to stumble a bit, which gives you a few seconds usually.

 

Alec

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Agg is bang on.

Give it a good clean, replace the fuel and impulse line. new plug (you will need a short plug scrench for these) check to make sure you have a spark etc. I would probably give the carb a quick strip and clean aswell, its only a ten minute job once you've done it a few times.

 

Whenever Ive rebuilt 1 I nearly always drop a teaspoon of fuel down the carb (just remove the airfilter) as it saves having to pull it over so many times to pull fuel through if the systems dry.

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