Is it time to replace my 200t

[Backpain]

The piston pump mod is a good place to start, & often is the problem, especially if the fault is erratic, me if the rubbers in the carb are all ok,& the crank seals good & the fault is hard to trace, I would think abut an 020 carb, the ms200 loves them!

 

I'm wondering now if its the crank seal. Its a bit drippy chain oil wise and smokes like an elephant gun after use. Smoky oil burn so there's a leak.

[Rich2484]

I'm wondering now if its the crank seal. Its a bit drippy chain oil wise and smokes like an elephant gun after use. Smoky oil burn so there's a leak.

 

not really. the saw will run lean on an air leak. not smoke.

[Backpain]

Can the chain oil leak into the crank?

[Rich2484]

not unless the gasket has gone between the case.

[spudulike]

I would say that as long as the cylinder and crank bearings are sound, the saw should give good life after a bit of a refurb.

 

Crank seals can be replaced, if worn the saw can have uneven idle and can hang on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut.

 

The biggest issue is generally the carb, there are a number off issues that can happen and the accelerator pump is just one of them. Do the mod and it effectively turns the carb back to one from an 020T - not quite the case as the design internally is slightly different but very similar.

 

There are other parts I check and sort out if faulty and generally resolve the common pickup, idle and max revs issues.

 

If the saw is low on compression then a new piston will bring the saw back to life - the wear is normally on the piston and the cylinder is generally OK unless the thing has seized or ingested woodchip.

 

I have returned many of these saws back from the brink of death and if they still play up after my work, all I do is dig in harder and do the last stage of work free of charge as it is generally carb related - it happens but not too often!

 

A new 020T carb may be the way to go - never fitted a new carb in my time but is easier for the novice!

 

If the crank bearings are shot, they can be replaced as long as the crank journals are not worn!

 

That's my take on this - I have had some right old wrecks in my time - even bags of bits and all ended up running!

 

PS - Rich is right about the oil leak and the leaking crank seal symptoms. Smokey running is generally down to an overly rich mix!

[Backpain]

As much as I would love to spend all night in the garage fiddling its been a long day and I have 2 massive conifers to take down on Thur/Fri so I have a t540xp on the way.

 

However SPUD! I would be interested in cost to refurb/fix or how much you would be interested in paying for it. I used it today and it seemed fine once I tweaked the low setting a little.

 

Its going to be interesting to see if the 540 has the same grunt on a 14" cut.

[Stubby]

 

Its going to be interesting to see if the 540 has the same grunt on a 14" cut.

 

It will be as good to start with and gradually get better . Set the A/T cutting hard in a big lump for a while . Rev it hard when you first start it in the morning for a few seconds and you will hear the revs gradually peak . It will be fine after that . Take the spark screen out . Check you have the latest strop attachment . ( all black with no grey bit ) . Some people have had a problem with the tightening of the bar nut . Not been a problem on mine though . When the fuel is at the top of the sight window its half full . Try not to run it right out of fuel . The A/T might need re setting .

[chrismechanic]

I've got an old 200t and it runs well.....but then some days it suffers the dreaded reving up issues. Its unpredictable and its been looked at twice without success.

 

i would say air leak, or carb problems. i think if you need a working saw a new one is the best solution.

 

it could also be the needles have become loose in the carb threads due to vibrations, its quite comon on old engines, some have an o ring fitted to them.

as you run the saw they can vibrate in giving a weak mixture, a bit of blue locktite can solve this issue or new o ring.

 

maybe replacing the carb would do it or you could be looking at a crank seal problem which dissaperes after the engine has warmed up and it expands.

chris.

Edited November 4, 2013 by chrismechanic

[Backpain]

It will be as good to start with and gradually get better . Set the A/T cutting hard in a big lump for a while . Rev it hard when you first start it in the morning for a few seconds and you will hear the revs gradually peak . It will be fine after that . Take the spark screen out . Check you have the latest strop attachment . ( all black with no grey bit ) . Some people have had a problem with the tightening of the bar nut . Not been a problem on mine though . When the fuel is at the top of the sight window its half full . Try not to run it right out of fuel . The A/T might need re setting .

 

When I need to reset the A/T will it log on through my WiFi or do I need to drive to London? If you get my meaning.

But seriously, does it need to be plugged into a pc? and can I get the software to do it myself? Does anyone understand the technology behind the A/T?

[Old Mill Tree Care]

I just bought a t540 from Skyland yesterday.