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Friction cord as chainsaw lanyard?


Arran Turner
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Sure why not, I used to have an adjustable lanyard using suitable cord, I could yank the tail and have it short, ten pay out slack to have it long.

 

It's like you read my mind, that is what I was thinking of running, run a VT and pulley as the adjuster to adjust to suitable length, I find sometimes on full stretch I could do with a foot more of lanyard

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What happens if you get a very large top or stick caught in the saw and it drags you out.. The ce certified lanyards have a breaking strain that should break before your rope or anchor point.. Besides that for pruning it sounds a good idea!

I have in the past for years used 11-10 mm cord but I heard a story about the above potential fault happening and it put me off... Plus I like the metal ring on the weaver strops to hook the saw on a harness.

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What happens if you get a very large top or stick caught in the saw and it drags you out.. The ce certified lanyards have a breaking strain that should break before your rope or anchor point.. Besides that for pruning it sounds a good idea!

I have in the past for years used 11-10 mm cord but I heard a story about the above potential fault happening and it put me off... Plus I like the metal ring on the weaver strops to hook the saw on a harness.

 

It doesn't matter for toppers Matty, because the hook will always break out so you can use what you want.

 

You're spot on for bigger saws when you tie on to the rear handle. If the saw goes down with a big piece.you don't want it strapped to you with something with a breaking strain of tonnes.

 

My breaking strain is less than tonnes!

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It doesn't matter for toppers Matty, because the hook will always break out so you can use what you want.

 

You're spot on for bigger saws when you tie on to the rear handle. If the saw goes down with a big piece.you don't want it strapped to you with something with a breaking strain of tonnes.

 

My breaking strain is less than tonnes!

 

In my younger days I would use any old rope (usually 3 strand or multiplait from old climbing ropes) as a lanyard to save money. I got my 254 pinched and off it went with a big lump of timber!! It ripped the handle away from the rest of the saw, she never started again!!

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In the days gone by for chainsaws we used to use 10mm sisal rope and as a means of making it longer or shorter a rope grab at the harness end. The sisal rope is strong enough to hold the saw comfortably easy to splice an eye in and a stopper knot. And it is much cheaper since rope grab is something that will last. 10mm sisal because it will break long before my rope!

 

 

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In the days gone by for chainsaws we used to use 10mm sisal rope and as a means of making it longer or shorter a rope grab at the harness end. The sisal rope is strong enough to hold the saw comfortably easy to splice an eye in and a stopper knot. And it is much cheaper since rope grab is something that will last. 10mm sisal because it will break long before my rope!

 

 

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Back when men were men Richard, you gave me that idea all them years ago, feels a long time now. There are other ways and means of making a break away and still use fancy dancy technicolor cord instead of natural fibre rope.

 

A couple of stout key chain rings incorporated in there perhaps. For myself I prefer to unclip the saw if I have any doubts or make cuts that will not create a kerf that will trap your saw, this is why I never put sap wood cuts under my back cut always above, they can create mini step cuts grabbing the saw when knocking tops out.

 

Would like to hear other suggestions for break away other than key rings, I have a standard shop bought lanyard now, it has from memory a SWL of 75kg not sure of the safety factor off the top of my head could be anywhere above 375kg breaking strain it will fail before my line but still be uncomfortable!

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