Help using a Figure of eight.

[Dog Tag]

Anyone know the set up for using a figure of eight as a friction device rather than spiderjack or prussic on drt. I cant find the video I saw a while back on it.

 

thanks

[Mark Bolam]

You can't use it on its own mate, just as a backup on descent.

[Joe Newton]

Not on ddrt. Rock climbers use it effectively as a belay or ascent device. Some arbs I know use it as a backup descender on chog downs, but in our work it's only recommended with a back up or "auto block"

[Dog Tag]

Cheers Mark and J.

 

I saw a video of an arb use it clogging down. Cant find it anywhere. He made it look so easy and he explained the set up.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Ol

[TGB]

Even in rock climbing terms, a 'Figure of 8' is only really used as a descender. (Though they can be used for ascending at a push or should that be be, 'at a heave'?) And can't be locked off on its own. Yes you can lock-off by wrapping a couple of winds round a thigh, for say cleaning a hold in readiness for an ascent. But even then, the climber has to hold the loose end.

 

Many rock climbers now save weight by using something like a Petzl Reverso or Gri Gri or Wild Country Variable Controller. The Gri Gri is the heaviest of the small descenders but also one of the safest. But even a Gri Gri need a holding hand on the loose end, as there have been cases of failure through slippage in use.

 

If you want light-weight and quick ascending in rock climbing. Using a 'Shunt' is good but it has a major downside, in that the 'Shunt' will only lock-off on a vertical rope. If you were to fall from one side or pendulum, you could well hit the deck.

Edited September 20, 2013 by TGB

[aquatoo]

Cheers Mark and J.

 

I saw a video of an arb use it clogging down. Cant find it anywhere. He made it look so easy and he explained the set up.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Ol

 

I've seen that video. He used a standard figure of eight on his bridge and just choked it on the way down. Not very safe without some other means of protection and as I recollect he didn't have a lanyard or flip line on.

I remember thinking that I didn't fancy that at all!

[Joe Newton]

It's relatively safe to use choked on a stem for emergency descent. And you can lock off a figure 8. YouTube "figure 8 soft lock".

[Marc]

The fig 8 revolver technique is my personal favourite, although it still uses a hitch it is one of the safest ways to choke a single line to a pole using kit you already have, you don't need a revolver either a simple round profile carabiner will suffice.

 

Jnewton a soft lock is no real back-up in commercial use, figure 8's are pretty pointless in arb work and more for alpine climbing or at a push used in commercial work with a blocking back-up like a prussik.

[Joe Newton]

The srt lads seem to use them a fair bit. I agree it's not foolproof. I use one for abseiling down rock faces. If I need to stop I can soft lock it. It's worked for me, thus I have faith in it.

 

I don't use it much in arb work, except for tensioning a zip line. I just use my main line as a second strop on chogs.

[Dog Tag]

Again thanks for the info. I don't like the spider jack clogging down. It's back to a prussic.