Pull-cord kickback when starting a STIHL MS 660

[treequip]

Normally happens when your trying to start it like a tart! I had hours of fun with my collage boys getting them to start an 880!!!

 

Ha Ha, I had one newbie that couldn't start anything bigger than a 44:001_rolleyes:

[spudulike]

In the owners defence, it was a problem whilst climbing and having started it on the ground - it was a bad kicker but not as bad as a 298XP.

 

It is funny, I usually like a little kick once in a while, shows the saw is close to maximum advance:thumbup:

[Rich2484]

In the owners defence, it was a problem whilst climbing and having started it on the ground - it was a bad kicker but not as bad as a 298XP.

 

It is funny, I usually like a little kick once in a while, shows the saw is close to maximum advance:thumbup:

 

Also reminds you that a pull cord can really effing hurt...... After five minutes of doing the "I just stubbed my toe dance" :lol:

[Al Cormack]

Is this happening with the decompression button pressed in?

[morten]

Is this happening with the decompression button pressed in?

 

It happened to me, even with decompression pressed in!

[morten]

I know this is an old thread but to draw a conclusion to the issue of an MS660 kicking back and snapping the starter out of your fingers....painfully:blushing:

 

I had the same model in with exactly the same fault, I found that the flywheel to ignition module gap was pretty close which would have advanced the ignition slightly.

 

I re-gapped the parts with a typical business card and it has cured the issue - this would have retarded the ignition by a degree or so and there is no sign of this painful phenomena.

 

I will let you go back to what my suggestion was earlier in the thread:thumbup1:

 

I know heat can affect the ignition module which is why the issue changes after the saw has been run - I draw this from a MS460 I had starting issues with - fine when cold, no spark when hot - the route cause was the flywheel ignition module gap was too large!

 

I am fairly confident that it IS heat related, as the problem occurred after refuelling while milling, and went away after leaving the saw for a while.

 

I am not sure where to measure/set the "flywheel to ignition module gap". It's obviously on the flywheel (doh!), and I might figure it out myself by taking off the recoil cover and having a look.

 

Do you, by any chance, have a picture/illustration illustrating the "flywheel to ignition module gap"?

[GardenKit]

Try this Morten

 

simply rotate flywheel till the North and South poles of the magnet align with the ignition module legs. Slacken the two T27 retaining screws and ease the module away from the flywheel. Insert a 0.2mm shim (I use a business card) between the module and the flywheel then let the magnet pull the module down. Tighten the screws,remove the card and check the gaps with a feeler guage.

[spudulike]

What GK said, the only thing to add is that the MS660 has a slightly different way of mounting the flywheel magnet and it isn't always obvious where it actually is. If you rotate the flywheel slowly, you will see the gap between the flywheel and coil, decrease a lot in one small 5cm area and this is where the gap needs setting.

 

On more conventional flywheels, you will see a big block of ally both sides of the flywheel, the one with two semi polished steel type inserts in it is the magnetic one where the gap needs setting.

 

Just make sure the flywheel spins unhindered after the gap has been set!

[njc110381]

Normally happens when your trying to start it like a tart! I had hours of fun with my collage boys getting them to start an 880!!!

 

I've found the same with my 660. It seems to snatch the cord if I'm gentle with it. If I lay into it like I mean business it's fine. It's been like it since new and hasn't done many hours even now. It could be poorly adjusted but I'm certain it's not an issue with anything being worn.

 

Put simply, tell it to start rather than ask it and you may well have better results. When it is running it's a lovely saw to use.

[morten]

What GK said, the only thing to add is that the MS660 has a slightly different way of mounting the flywheel magnet and it isn't always obvious where it actually is. If you rotate the flywheel slowly, you will see the gap between the flywheel and coil, decrease a lot in one small 5cm area and this is where the gap needs setting.

 

On more conventional flywheels, you will see a big block of ally both sides of the flywheel, the one with two semi polished steel type inserts in it is the magnetic one where the gap needs setting.

 

Just make sure the flywheel spins unhindered after the gap has been set!

 

Try this Morten

 

simply rotate flywheel till the North and South poles of the magnet align with the ignition module legs. Slacken the two T27 retaining screws and ease the module away from the flywheel. Insert a 0.2mm shim (I use a business card) between the module and the flywheel then let the magnet pull the module down. Tighten the screws,remove the card and check the gaps with a feeler guage.

[ATTACH]145745[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks guys!