Very cool way of winching your Alaskan up the log

[Bob Slade]

Im a follower of this brilliant Idea, read it then went away fantasing. Didn't notice the waterski type rope comments and pictures, therefore went away thinking that steel cable was going to rough up the round bar on the mill.

 

Anyhow I have forgotten the size, but you can get that blue mains water pipe MDPE type in the right size that would slide over the top bar. Looking forwards to having a go, the winch should be here soon.

 

good idea about the pipe, i have loads of crabs from my rock climbing days. all someone has to do now is invent a way of fixing the return instead of using a 5 ton truck lol:biggrin:

[Rob D]

Ha ha! Did some 50" cedar planks last week with the return just fixed to a lump of wood - worked fine!

 

 

Vid soon I promise - you will be lovin' it!

 

 

 

[Goaty]

:thumbup1:Tried it today, this idea should go all the way. Less effort and less vibes. I only used standard nylon type rope.

[mdt]

:thumbup1:Tried it today, this idea should go all the way. Less effort and less vibes. I only used standard nylon type rope.

 

Wont be getting a demo then tonight. Part timer!

[bobh]

Just ordered winch, pulley and rope to get this set up on my mill.

Rob, what are the vibes like on the winch handle?

Wondered about fitting foam handlebar grips over the handle to reduce vibes.

Something like this

2pcs Bicycle Cycle Bike MTB Smooth/Rough Tube Sponge Foam Rubber Handlebar Grips | eBay

[Rob D]

You could do Bob - but really the vibes are pretty negligible - but prob a good idea if you have a lot to do.

 

 

[Goaty]

Just ordered winch, pulley and rope to get this set up on my mill.

Rob, what are the vibes like on the winch handle?

Wondered about fitting foam handlebar grips over the handle to reduce vibes.

Something like this

2pcs Bicycle Cycle Bike MTB Smooth/Rough Tube Sponge Foam Rubber Handlebar Grips | eBay

 

I've not done a long session but vibes are well down on the regular push n shove technique. Your body is not muscular rigid, just squeeze the throttle and ease the winch round and round. Its like comparing sailing to a pedalo at sea.

[Forest2Furniture]

Used the winch for the first time this week on some more London Plane, works great much easier and less strain on the old body.

Thanks for posting the idea in the first place Rob.

[Mike Dempsey]

My winch is on its way and hopefully will be here by Tuesday. I was thinking about screwing an eyebolt into the end of the plank that I am milling and then feeding the rope up through it and then back onto the rail of the mill. Need to check to see if it is smooth enough to not fray the rope. The alternative would be to screw an eyebolt into the end of the plank and attaching a miniature snatch block/pulley wheel and threading the rope or cable through it. Has anyone who has tried it yet experienced the far end of the mill riding up slightly and making uneven planks?

[TGB]

... I was thinking about screwing an eyebolt into the end of the plank that I am milling and then feeding the rope up through it and then back onto the rail of the mill...

After having observed Rob's setup working, I can see a few potential problems with screwing anchors directly into the piece being milled:

 

• If you screw into the top of the board, there will be some damage, which will then require removal. And as you near the end of the cut, you'll have to remove the attachment point or line as the saw will be passing directly under the anchor.

 

• If you screw into the end of the board, there will be some damage, which may then require removal or repair. And as you near the end of the cut, you'll have to remove the attachment point or line as the saw will be passing directly under the anchor. Plus, there will be increased abrasive contact between cord and top edge the the board being cut.

 

• If you attached the pulley anchor directly to but at a lower point on the stick being milled. You would still be left with the problem below and yet more contact friction.

 

If you allowed slack into the cord as you neared the end of the cut with either of the above. You'd then finish with a saw which was physically attached to either a loose board or an object which is now behind you; with the added potential of contact between cord and chain. And if no slack were allowed as you neared the end. You may well be able to finish said cut but would also nicely cut through the cord, as the chain exits the wood.

 

As the angle of the pulley anchor to winch is increased, as the cord is pulled over a sharp edge. So is there an increase in the amount of friction and depending on the increase, there may then be a knock-on problem, with the cord momentarily snagging the edge and the winch snatching in operation. And the cord will wear that much quicker.

 

• Rob's setup at the show, had the pulleyed anchor point at ground level but at a short distance from the end cut. Abrasive friction would then reduce with every cut closer to the ground.

 

If the pulley's anchor were placed level with the milling cut, this would give the least possibility of abrasive friction. However, the anchor would then need lowering before each successive cut or an upward force would be applied. Pulling the mill away from the horizontal and putting more strain on muscles a saw alike.

Edited June 23, 2013 by TGB