Varnish?? Oil??

[Woodcrafter]

Hi guys/girls,

I see a lot of carvings that are gloss finished I like to use Danish oil but have a couple of pieces that I'd like to varnish. I know of a couple of neoprene products but what would you guys recommend for a nice gloss long lasting finish?

[Ian Leach]

I've just brought a new varnish it's called le tonkinois all natural oil based varnish. Will be looking at possible stocking it if works out well.

 

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Woodcrafter]

Nice how are you going to put it up to the test?

[Ian Leach]

The guy I brought it from has been selling it for 20 years and was showing some tests, submerging in boiling hot water, a thin wafer of wood with it on bending without cracking. Used for boats to but also food safe as all natural.

 

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Woodcrafter]

Ok sounds good. What about cold experiments? I don't know much about how any of these products work but just want to protect my pieces so that they last as long as possible outside and preferably with an initial glossy finish that will also stand a test of time.

Phil

[se7enthdevil]

i've just been introduced to osmo oil products and think they are great. the poly x stuff is realy good as it will repel things like wine rings from the bottom of bottles. i bought a tin of the clear satin matt 3032 and its great stuff as it basicaly dries as a wax finish and doesnt need to be sanded of for any refinishing as you just apply the next coat on top of the last one.

 

 

i've also used their exterior uv protector 410 which is suposed to repel water by letting it bead up and drip off. i would have thought that's whats your after and that it would be ideal for chainsaw carvings...

 

 

 

i have a tin of that le tonkinois stuff but never got round to using it, would be interested to hear how the tests go.

 

 

in my experience varnishes can be tricky to apply well unless you are a finisher and know what your doing, oils are much easier...

 

 

 

 

 

.

[Woodcrafter]

Thank you that's sound advice.

[dervishcarving]

i have tried a few different oils and varnish. On very smooth finishes (like the tops of toadstool seats) then exterior varnish (yacht varnish, satin or gloss) is fine. apply a coat, sand it back and repeat to get a good few layers. Have left some outside for 14 months now and still looks great.

for textured surfaces i tend to use oil

have tried a few different oils. linseed oil is great in that it dries to a good hard shell but its expensive and you need to build up layers. danish oil is fine if you want to darken the wood (i used it on my cat carving last year to darken the wood that made up the 'tree') but again its expensive and you need many coats to penetrate enough.

these days i mainly use ronseal decking protector (i think Tom first suggested it). has a good oil content but also has a wax dissolved in it which remains on the surface. still needs a few coats but gives a good finish.

one suggestion i would give is try warming the oil first. DONT boil it (kaboom) but if you heat it a little it will soak in quicker. to stop cracking you need plenty of oil penetration

look forward to hear what others have to say on this. some of my carvings have still cracked despite oil, especially if the heartwood is still present

[Woodworks]

For a good yacht varnish I would happily recommend the Epifanes.

[abercarver]

Reading this topic Iv started with teak oil, but find the carvings drink it like a thirsty camel!

Im going to give the Ronseal decking protector a go and see what its like for showing the grain and protection.

...Seems good feedback from it too.