Makita DCS520 doesn't cut

[gensetsteve]

If my saw pulls to one side and cuts bananas its because my hand sharpening is different one side to the other. I put everything back in line after 7 sharpens by sticking the chain on the bench grinder.

[DCS6800i]

Agree with gensetsteve - it could well be the bar as the experts have said though - i sharpen freehand and although i know what im doing every now and again i do cock it up (usually if iv blunted chain on wire or stone, when 1 side is more damaged as the other). Its easy done. Take a new file to chain, sharpen all teeth again and then do only the ones on whichever side its pulling to. Go cut something and see what its doing.

[RealEstate]

Hi Fellers,

 

Prompted by the excellent advice, my observations as follows:

 

Yes the blades on the chain are longer on the RH side, 1-2mm on average. I guess that's because I'm right-handed and it's a more natural movement sharpening the LH blades. It pulls to the right also.

 

Bar seems pretty straight, but when I do the ruler test laying across the bar, in the mid length of the bar, the ruler isn't square to the bar. So yes, one side is worn more than the other.

 

Also the bar has 'burrs' along the sides, where the chain has worn it. I can't be sure whether the bar is splayed or not, but it is showing signs of wear. Guess it's cut the best part of 50Tonnes over the years. Is that par for the course?

 

Perhaps I need to splash out on a new bar? Should I get a Makita bar or are other makes interchangeable?

 

Ref the clutch slipping, is that easily adjusted or is it a dealer job?

 

Thanks again for the excellent advice.

 

.

Edited March 28, 2013 by RealEstate

[Rich2484]

Nice. Get a new bar, for all the effort getting the bar dressed it will work out cheaper to just buy another.

 

The clutch can't be adjusted, just replaced when worn, slipping is a sign its worn, but given the bar has had it get a new bar and chain on it first, then see if it carries on slipping.

[spudulike]

Hi Fellers,

 

Prompted by the excellent advice, my observations as follows:

 

Yes the blades on the chain are longer on the RH side, 1-2mm on average. I guess that's because I'm right-handed and it's a more natural movement sharpening the LH blades. It pulls to the right also.

 

Bar seems pretty straight, but when I do the ruler test laying across the bar, in the mid length of the bar, the ruler isn't square to the bar. So yes, one side is worn more than the other.

 

Also the bar has 'burrs' along the sides, where the chain has worn it. I can't be sure whether the bar is splayed or not, but it is showing signs of wear. Guess it's cut the best part of 50Tonnes over the years. Is that par for the course?

 

Perhaps I need to splash out on a new bar? Should I get a Makita bar or are other makes interchangeable?

 

Ref the clutch slipping, is that easily ajusted or is it a dealer job?

 

Thanks again for the excellent advice.

 

.

 

Sounds like the bar has done it's best, you can close the rails and level them but not a job for the beginner.

 

Try getting the bar details from here - OREGON®: Selector Guide

 

Or you can try mailing "Rob D" on here, he runs "Chainsawbars" and will give you a good bit of advice and discount:thumbup:

 

The clutch slipping is probably worn shoes so these will need replacing however it is worth cleaning the clutch drum to make sure it isn't just gunked up and worth making sure the shoes aren't binding on the central boss - bit of overhaul this bank holiday:thumbup:

Edited March 28, 2013 by spudulike

[Eddy_t]

Clutch slipping means you need a new clutch and possibly a new drum

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[Le Sanglier]

Is it conceivable that he is confusing a slipping clutch with a banana cutting chain trapped in the cut and revving out? just a thought.

[Gnome]

I would go for a new bar. It sounds as though it has had a good life. Get yourself a set of vernier calipers to check the length of your cutters when you sharpen. and flip your bar over each time you take it off to give the bar groove a good clean. Inspect your chain and bar for wear and you can quickly remedy any slight wear.

 

If you were happy with the bar you had just get a replacement. Saves the hassle of finding a suitable bar and matching chain size as there could be a slight difference in link count. Or as stated above contact Rob at chainsawbars highly recommend!!!

 

As for clutch:-

 

Spark plug out. Piston stop in. Chap the Clutch Assembly off and replace. 5 minute job.

 

Spares for Makita Dcs520 Chainsaw 52cc SPARE_DCS520 from Power Tool Centre

 

Diagram Ref no. 146. I would check these parts look the same as your machine.

 

Ref no. 145 is the clutch drum if there is wear on the inside of that.

 

Check the rim sprocket as well. When I have changed bar I change sprocket and new chain.

 

To me it is a bit like changing the discs on your car and using old pads Not the best idea!!

 

Hope this helps and let me know if I'm talking nonsense chaps.

Edited March 28, 2013 by Gnome

[RealEstate]

Thanks Fellers,

 

I've contacted RobD as advised.

 

One query:

The 18" bar on my saw since new is marked 443.045.651.

 

But Makita parts lists on web say bar should be 445.045.631

 

Have I been using the wrong bar all these years?

 

TIA

[Eddy_t]

Thanks Fellers,

 

I've contacted RobD as advised.

 

One query:

The 18" bar on my saw since new is marked 443.045.651.

 

But Makita parts lists on web say bar should be 445.045.631

 

Have I been using the wrong bar all these years?

 

TIA

 

Part no. 445-045-631 is .325

Part no. 443-045-651 is 3/8

 

What's your chain? And sprocket? You might have everything incompatible!

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App