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SRT for beginners?


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To many variables to consider like is the tree being climbed or is it the rope being climbed, is it horizontal progression or vertical progression etc etc.

Yes if they have the strength and depending on the climb and work being performed.

No if the do not have the strength and depending on the climb and work being performed.

 

Drt

 

I think I see where you're coming from but I don't agree that strength is an issue. If a person wants to become a tree surgeon, their strength will develop.

 

Climbing SRTWP is a lot less physically demanding than DdRT in my opinion.

I've been climbing SRTWP for nearly 11 months and am only now getting to a point where I'm becoming efficient with it. This is due to having to retrain brain and muscle memory so, back to the OP, a trainee shouldn't have an issue.

 

To reinforce the point I climbed with DdRT and a Prussik last week. What a horrific experience. I'd forgotten quite how retarded it is but the biggest surprise was how my body didn't know what to do!

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i thought yes, but when i tried to train true novices. they ended up getting stuck and in a right pickle. so then i thought no. it might be more efficient but you have to think more dynamically. especially for branch walking 'thats it now put a 3 to one in off your ascender' bit complex i reckon.

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i thought yes, but when i tried to train true novices. they ended up getting stuck and in a right pickle. so then i thought no. it might be more efficient but you have to think more dynamically. especially for branch walking 'thats it now put a 3 to one in off your ascender' bit complex i reckon.

 

Ok so now we have our first live one! Someone with the experience instead of speculation.

Can you elaborate Munkymadman? How far did you go with your novices and what exactly were their problems.

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Climbing a single static line, has less personal strength requirements and no directional limits.

 

Dave

 

True but it is not as simple as that.

Getting to and fine tuning your position to safely do the work is the real test.

Pruning trees is my primary work. Mostly reductions of large spreading deciduous is my esperience. I prune before remove as some of you know by my videos.

Novice should learn the why , when and where and what of climbing.

My trainees have all preferred DRt for work positioning they felt safer for a number of reasons. Less gear and maintains the feet or legs for secure foot holds. We all love Srt for its effeciencies and will yoyo between them.

Now we use Lj and Sj with ropeguid or Secret weapon.

The point is it will depend on the tree and work being performed. Removal, puning, reductions/hazard prune, single or multi-stemmed, specific tree habit etc.

Blanket statements close doors, keep your options open, the only limits that should be set for a novice is crawl, walk then run .:001_smile:

 

Hybrid term for the two systems? How about S/Dt Single/Double Rope system or Super Duper Systm SDT:thumbup:

 

Srt turns instantly to a drt when you pull your slack thruough the pulley/slack tender back in the direction of your tip. See what I mean?

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So your top anchor is choked say with a running bowline. Take the working end and lift above this point and clip into a sling and a dmm revolver. Repeat this process as you move up the stem. I normally use this when spreading the redirect load across the crown to allow me to work on the extreme tips. A bit like fishing line lowering, multiple slings and pulleys to spread the line load

 

Hey guys, Slightly off topic but I would imagine this would also be a good choice when your way out on a tree shaped like a fishing pole over a roof. Ironic! Like recently I was removing a Chinese tallo that curved over a house. A bit sketchy, I had to get far enough out so I could rig the top to swing free over the house. It probably had a 50 to 60 degree lean and was around 8 inches where i was standing. Ashamed to say but I used only my lanyard considering the tree was small and there wasn't any other tree to Set a climb line above me for back up. while climbing SRT I have used half hitches with my climb line to advance small diameter wood but was a pain so I didn't take the time to be safe since I recall setting and removing the half hitches was a pain. Using slings and crabs or pulleys every 3-4 feet seems to be the safer and more efficient option in case of tree failure. Like Ian said, "spreading the load" Would anyone agree/disagree to this being a better method?

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Hey guys, Slightly off topic but I would imagine this would also be a good choice when your way out on a tree shaped like a fishing pole over a roof. Ironic! Like recently I was removing a Chinese tallo that curved over a house. A bit sketchy, I had to get far enough out so I could rig the top to swing free over the house. It probably had a 50 to 60 degree lean and was around 8 inches where i was standing. Ashamed to say but I used only my lanyard considering the tree was small and there wasn't any other tree to Set a climb line above me for back up. while climbing SRT I have used half hitches with my climb line to advance small diameter wood but was a pain so I didn't take the time to be safe since I recall setting and removing the half hitches was a pain. Using slings and crabs or pulleys every 3-4 feet seems to be the safer and more efficient option in case of tree failure. Like Ian said, "spreading the load" Would anyone agree/disagree to this being a better method?

 

Agree.:thumbup1:

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It's probably one of Te main safety advantages that srt can give you, multiple anchor points are possible. You could also add prussics on the line and make many semi permanent anchors if you thought your main psp :primary suspension point: was perhaps a tad dodgy..

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It's probably one of Te main safety advantages that srt can give you, multiple anchor points are possible. You could also add prussics on the line and make many semi permanent anchors if you thought your main psp :primary suspension point: was perhaps a tad dodgy..

 

PSP? Did you get that one for Xmas drew:001_tt2::laugh1:

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