Newbie chainsaw user seeking advice

[Steve999]

Safety 1st 2nd and 3rd. Get some professional training, which will force you to get your PPE, and treat the saw with respect but don't be frightened of it. I've got a Stihl MS260 and a Leccy Makita to keep the piece with the neighbours.

[javaguy44]

Hi doobin, thanks for the reply. Yes I wanted electric because I don't need the power and I didn't want to have to worry about leaving fuel etc in the engine as it will be occasional use and certainly less or no use during summer months

 

Thanks

[javaguy44]

Thanks all for the advice. I will look into training...

[Steve999]

Makita 4030 is corded, 16" bar, works well, recommend!

[javaguy44]

Ah, some confusion. I was looking to get the Stihl MSA 160 which is the Lithium ion cordless chainsaw. I've seen a lot of positive reviews; obviously for my kinda occassional usage and not for the pros...

[AlvinD]

Stihl MS 180 (this was my first saw, really decent wee saw. The heaviest I had it at was 16inch Ash w/14" bar and it did well.) and a tub is Aspen and your sorted. Worst come to worst I'd of thought the petrol saw would be a lot easier to sell than the electric one.

Edited December 10, 2012 by AlvinD

[face cord]

I can recommend the makita electric also, must of cut over 30 cube of wood with it & its still going strong.

 

Bit slow if you have larger diameter stuff though.

 

Electric motor in the battery stihl, is it 1.6KW?

 

Probably considerably less power than a 2KW corded makita one?

[will.morris]

Chainsaws can take chunks out of you when they're not even running lol so 100% definately get the PPE.

 

For the usuage you've described I'd say training would be beneficial but not necessarily essential. Familarise yourself with what kickback is and learn how to avoid it and look up target pruning for the branches that you said you might do sometimes as well as tension and compression within limbs otherwise you'll be trapping the saw every 30secs. Get half decent at sharpening, basic maintenance and you should be sweet.

 

I've noticed a lot of new users try to push the saw through the wood, no need at all, keep it biting in well and let the saw do the work and if its blunt stop cutting and sharpen.

 

Ms260 all the way with a 14/15" bar ... you'll get sick of firewooding with an underpowered saw very quickly.

[geoff]

Hi doobin, thanks for the reply. Yes I wanted electric because I don't need the power and I didn't want to have to worry about leaving fuel etc in the engine as it will be occasional use and certainly less or no use during summer months

 

Thanks

 

It may have already got mentioned,but if it's the stale petrol issue that puts you off a petrol saw,take a look at Aspen fuels,not cheap,but a shelf life of 3 years,which opens up your target choices.

I have only heard good things about the stihl cordless saw,but it will not compete with a decent petrol,& if you are doing firewood for more than the occasional fire it may hold you back a little by comparison.

I may get shot for this,but training is expensive,although FR Jones & son do a more tailored training I believe,or hire a pro to teach you for a day,should cost you less than full on training.

Chainsaw trousers ,toe capped boots & a chainsaw helmet would be advised for your ppe.

If you do go for a petrol saw,get back on here & ask for some specific advice on your choices regards budget & target wood size.

[agg221]

I would second Geoff's comments - a further consideration is the almost infinite life of a decent quality petrol saw with the use you'll give it, relative to the lifetime of a battery, which will get progressively worse with each charge cycle and will ultimately give up, probably just after they have become obsolete and unobtainable. By contrast, parts for many petrol saws remain pretty much available forever (you can still buy the key parts for a Stihl Contra from the early 1960s).

 

You are doing something pretty simple and repetitive in cutting firewood, so personally I wouldn't go for training to the level of tickets. Sharpening and maintenance are simple principles and the former is a skill acquired through practice, the latter by reading the manual! Someone to show you what to do would be advisable though - this is how I learned.

 

Good PPE is always worth it - chaps are cheaper than trousers and not too cumbersome when you're ground based and fairly static. If you do get a petrol saw then ear defenders are also advisable.

 

Alec