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Stick your hardwood where the sun don't shine


Dean Lofthouse
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The biggest factor in the Hardwood v softwood argument is the Stove.

 

If you have a stove with the flu opening straight out the top of the fire with no recycling action, use hardwood because the biggest percentage of the btu's it produces will go straight up the chimney.

 

If you have an efficient stove ( mine is a smokeless stove ) you can burn softwood in a very controlled and efficient manner and very few of the btu,s produced are wasted.

 

It is only very recently people are cottoning on to this and stove producers are making ever more efficient stoves that recirculate the smoke ( smoke is un burnt carbons which equals more btu,s ) and keep the heat in the firebox as long as possible for the stove to absorb the energy.

 

Look inside your stove in the firebox, if you can see the hole where the flu enters at the top, you need to take it out in the garden and smash it up for scrap, because that stove is sending £10 notes of your hard earned cash up into the atmosphere and you will be sat there with your little glass of wine unwittingly celebrating that fact

 

Education is the key here fellas and we as suppliers should know these things.

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The biggest factor in the Hardwood v softwood argument is the Stove.

 

If you have a stove with the flu opening straight out the top of the fire with no recycling action, use hardwood because the biggest percentage of the btu's it produces will go straight up the chimney.

 

If you have an efficient stove ( mine is a smokeless stove ) you can burn softwood in a very controlled and efficient manner and very few of the btu,s produced are wasted.

 

It is only very recently people are cottoning on to this and stove producers are making ever more efficient stoves that recirculate the smoke ( smoke is un burnt carbons which equals more btu,s ) and keep the heat in the firebox as long as possible for the stove to absorb the energy.

 

Look inside your stove in the firebox, if you can see the hole where the flu enters at the top, you need to take it out in the garden and smash it up for scrap, because that stove is sending £10 notes of your hard earned cash up into the atmosphere and you will be sat there with your little glass of wine unwittingly celebrating that fact

 

Education is the key here fellas and we as suppliers should know these things.

 

Second that. Mine has two pipes recirculating the smoke back to the flames where the smoke forms little jets like mini blowlamps:thumbup:

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i run my heating system and hot water from the Wood Warm stove that we had fitted earlier this year , it only has a 15kw output but i still have not been able to get it burning to its full potential !! it heats the house to the point that we have to have the french windows in the kitchen open !! this is all done using a mixture of hardwoods and no soft wood , so as Dean said above it does depend on how good the burner is and how efficient it is .

 

That being said - the house is like an ice box at the moment as i decided to re render and re tile the fire surround on the lead up too the two coldest days of the year so far !!!

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The biggest factor in the Hardwood v softwood argument is the Stove.

 

If you have a stove with the flu opening straight out the top of the fire with no recycling action, use hardwood because the biggest percentage of the btu's it produces will go straight up the chimney.

 

If you have an efficient stove ( mine is a smokeless stove ) you can burn softwood in a very controlled and efficient manner and very few of the btu,s produced are wasted.

 

It is only very recently people are cottoning on to this and stove producers are making ever more efficient stoves that recirculate the smoke ( smoke is un burnt carbons which equals more btu,s ) and keep the heat in the firebox as long as possible for the stove to absorb the energy.

 

Look inside your stove in the firebox, if you can see the hole where the flu enters at the top, you need to take it out in the garden and smash it up for scrap, because that stove is sending £10 notes of your hard earned cash up into the atmosphere and you will be sat there with your little glass of wine unwittingly celebrating that fact

 

Education is the key here fellas and we as suppliers should know these things.

 

Dont smash them up I can give them away with logs :thumbup: I know what you mean I bought a new stove a year ago for the office made by arda with a secondary burn wigit thingy and the difference is amazing the old stove was a waste of time and would eat 15 or 20 logs a day. New stove 5 logs and we have to leave the door to the yard open.

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i run my heating system and hot water from the Wood Warm stove that we had fitted earlier this year , it only has a 15kw output but i still have not been able to get it burning to its full potential !! it heats the house to the point that we have to have the french windows in the kitchen open !! this is all done using a mixture of hardwoods and no soft wood , so as Dean said above it does depend on how good the burner is and how efficient it is .

 

That being said - the house is like an ice box at the moment as i decided to re render and re tile the fire surround on the lead up too the two coldest days of the year so far !!!

 

I did that a few years ago I decided best to replaster 2 months before lighting stove next time. :001_smile:

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I'm burning some bone dry Poplar on our open fire atm, burns a treat. No spit, bloody warm and flames lovely. I know Pop is a right sod to get dry and keep dry but when you do its a cracking wood to burn imo and i can normally get as much as i want for nout if i can be bothered with the hassle of getting it dry.

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