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Damaged chain advice


Pasty Muncher
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I would just slip a new link in.

Not worried re it been newer or not worn as it would bed in very quick and they are generally not that precise.A lot of the initial slack is it bedding in rather than stretching like a lot believe.

But having said that if it,s part worn and you have to pay for the repair just buy a new one:thumbup:

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To be honest, if it was my own saw, and the chain had good life left in it, I would fit a link.

 

But, as a professional dealer, I have to consider the risks of anything I do as part of my business.The last thing I need is comeback on a dodgey repair.

 

It could be OK, in which case I charge £5 but give 20% to the Vat man and 20% to the tax man, so end up with £3.20, but if it fails the cost could be great, especially if an injury from a flailing chain resulted.

 

In my opinion the risk of repeat failure and the possible liability outways the gain, so thats another reason not to do it.

 

Other dealers may see it differently, but I do things my way.

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I would just slip a new link in.

Not worried re it been newer or not worn as it would bed in very quick and they are generally not that precise.A lot of the initial slack is it bedding in rather than stretching like a lot believe.

But having said that if it,s part worn and you have to pay for the repair just buy a new one:thumbup:

 

:thumbup1:

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I would just slip a new link in.

Not worried re it been newer or not worn as it would bed in very quick and they are generally not that precise.A lot of the initial slack is it bedding in rather than stretching like a lot believe.

But having said that if it,s part worn and you have to pay for the repair just buy a new one:thumbup:

 

Very well put Bob:thumbup1:

 

I find it very strange that people think chains stretch, they don't, the part of the chain that sits on the guid bar wears, making the chain slack, if you have ever cut timber thats contaminated by sand you will have noticed how quickly the chain goes slack due to excessive wear.

 

Any new link will very quickly wear to match the others.

 

If you buy your chains by mail-order, bin it and buy a new one, if you use a local dealer they will more than likely fix it very cheaply or for free.

 

I know Dick Leigh (my dealer) would sort a chain like that for me while I waited.

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Where are you Pasty M? If you're near to Ipswich pop into Sproughton Garden Machinery and ask for Albert, he's very knowledgeable on everything to do with saws and will soon advise you on best route to take Inc dropping in a new link.

 

Thanks Andy, I'll pop in and see him next time I'm home as that isn't far from me

 

Sent from my Galaxy SII using Tapatalk

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I find it very strange that people think chains stretch, they don't, .

 

Sorry to contradict you Skyhuck, but chains most certainly DO stretch.

 

Sure, the bottoms of the tie bars do wear down, but this makes next to difference to the length of the chain, as it does not effect the pitch. It is the pitch X the number of links that make the length.

 

The pivot pins all wear minutley as time goes by, and as they do the chain pitch becomes longer, so therfore the chain elongates.

 

Place the chain on a flat surface and stretch the chain out in a straight line. Compare the length of say, 20 links with a new chain.

 

A used chain in good order will have usually stretched by about 5 or 6 mm over that length, or around 2%.

 

I consider 2 to 3% to be about the max allowable, as the drive links will not match the sprockets and the chain will start to run high on the teeth, causing wear to the sprocket.

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