Pulley removal on 528T

[Mike Hill]

I am replacing the bearings on the Jensen 528T,I am unsure on how to get the pulley off the rotor shaft.There is a place that sits inside the pulley with two grub screws with Allen heads but a hole that is empty.

 

On the other side of the pulley is a taper that sits in a slot,the other end of this taper is visable from the side of the pulley where the holes for the grub screws are.

 

I tapped the taper back and removed both grub screws,then wound one into the blind unoccupied hole.It didn't budge.I havn't used a puller yet or any heat and wonder if I am on the right track removing the pulley?

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Thanks

[skyhuck]

I am replacing the bearings on the Jensen 528T,I am unsure on how to get the pulley off the rotor shaft.There is a place that sits inside the pulley with two grub screws with Allen heads but a hole that is empty.

 

On the other side of the pulley is a taper that sits in a slot,the other end of this taper is visable from the side of the pulley where the holes for the grub screws are.

 

I tapped the taper back and removed both grub screws,then wound one into the blind unoccupied hole.It didn't budge.I havn't used a puller yet or any heat and wonder if I am on the right track removing the pulley?

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

 

Thats the way I've always done it.

 

I would try winding the grub screw as tight as you dare and the hitting the pulley with a rubber hammer.

 

Don't know if thats any help.

[Johny Walker]

loads of wd/40 brass hammer, you may find the taper will split when tapped thats normal on old 1,s DONT GO TO WESSEX FOR PARTS go to a bearing distributer i got all the bearing & cases,taper lock for under £100 invat were are you based ps use heat as a last resort it could distort the shaft

Edited December 30, 2008 by Johny Walker

[skyhuck]

you may find the taper will split when tapped thats normal on old 1,s

 

 

 

Good point!, I've had that, they go back together on the shaft and still work just fine.

[Mike Hill]

Ok

 

So I have drifted the taper all the way back in its key way.I'll wind the screw into the "blind hole" as much as I dare.And Then I think I'll use a puller on the pully,and give it some taps with a polymer hammer.

 

thats tomorrows job!

 

thanks guys!

[Johny Walker]

Ok

 

So I have drifted the taper all the way back in its key way.I'll wind the screw into the "blind hole" as much as I dare.And Then I think I'll use a puller on the pully,and give it some taps with a polymer hammer.

 

thats tomorrows job!

 

thanks guys!

 

get blatherd in freeing oil:001_tt2: to soak in over nite, are you near leeds,

[Mike Hill]

No,am based in Norway.

 

I had to order from the Uk.The parts cost alot,but the local bearing guys are pretty hopeless.

[Dean Lofthouse]

Mike, Just put the grub in the blank hole, put some pressure on and tap with a brass drift evenly and lightly all the way round the inner, it should come off ok. If not tap a bit harder

 

Make sure the pressure is kept on the grub in the blank hole, sometimes they back off without you realising.

 

I have some centres in my container, all different sizes, if you bust it and know the size let me know and I'll see if I have one that matches or if you want me to order something from a bearing dealer here and send it out ??

[Mr Ed]

On the subject of taperlocks, I have had to whack them with a big lump hammer before now, they can almost weld themselves together.

Heat is useless as you get heat transfer between the surfaces. Very hard to break though, so dont worry about clouting the taper lock good and hard.

 

Shame you bought bearings already Mike, I could have saved you a fortune

[Mike Hill]

Is the "Taper lock" the peice of metal that sits in the slot on the shaft?

 

Or the Circular disc that has the three grub screw holes in it?