Processor - Circular Saw vs Chainsaw ???

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

I run a Palax KS35 with a chainsaw and yes, it does create more waste but I sell the sawdust to one of my customers who has horses. When you stop operating the chainsaw it stops straight away whereas I was told the blades slow down before s topping which means you cannot open the guard over the splitting bay to reposition log untils it stops - dont know how true this is.

 

I find I can get two days cutting dry hardwood out of a chain before it needs sharpening and to change it takes 5 minutes.

 

Its the same with everything - if there are two versions of the same product you will get good and bad views on both, boils down to personal preference.

 

So far no vehement hostility to the chainsaw but that other thread deffo had some very strong reasons to avoid ???

[Chris Sheppard]

Owned both types and used different brands of both types too.

 

IME Circular is faster on smaller diameter stuff and doesnt need sharpened very often. Not great on bigger diameter or bendy stuff as tends to nip blade. Doesn't take as much per cut but makes nasty blowy dust. Quite often run on belts - overzealous operator tends to lead to faster belt wear.

 

Chainsaw a bit slower cutting on smaller stuff but more consistent on bigger stuff. Needs sharpening a bit more but most can be sharpened on the machine if you're clever. takes a bit more but a lot less actual dust (jut lots of shavings). Can be quite hard on bars (especially if chain a bit dull) - rails want leveling up every few days before it becomes a problem.

 

Generally, chainsaw machines tend to be physically a bit smaller too.

 

For handling the widest range of shapes and sizes of timber I'd be more inclined to go chainsaw but that's just my opinion.

[Michael C]

The other thing to remember is the cutting set up. Some of the CS machines dont have an infeed conveyer and you are also pushing the log into the blade rather than pulling a chain down through it.

I have a 1x37 here and you do get a LOT of cutting before having to sharpen the chain.

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Owned both types and used different brands of both types too.

 

IME Circular is faster on smaller diameter stuff and doesnt need sharpened very often. Not great on bigger diameter or bendy stuff as tends to nip blade. Doesn't take as much per cut but makes nasty blowy dust. Quite often run on belts - overzealous operator tends to lead to faster belt wear.

 

Chainsaw a bit slower cutting on smaller stuff but more consistent on bigger stuff. Needs sharpening a bit more but most can be sharpened on the machine if you're clever. takes a bit more but a lot less actual dust (jut lots of shavings). Can be quite hard on bars (especially if chain a bit dull) - rails want leveling up every few days before it becomes a problem.

 

Generally, chainsaw machines tend to be physically a bit smaller too.

 

For handling the widest range of shapes and sizes of timber I'd be more inclined to go chainsaw but that's just my opinion.

 

Fantastic. Thanks Chris Looks like the Farmi 36 is worth a look then...

[Billy68]

ive got the farmi and its a great machine if you buy one get the log lift saves your back

[Chris Sheppard]

Fantastic. Thanks Chris Looks like the Farmi 36 is worth a look then...

 

No Prob

 

I know it might sound a bit biased based on what I used to do, but if I was going to go out an buy a new processor for sub 15", I would get one of the farmi's without hesitating. A few subtle differences compared to other similar sized machines in the same price bracket but so easy to use and seriously fast. Takes bendy wood well too as they have a massive throat width.

 

If you get chance, get a go on one and I'd be very surprised if you didn't get on with it.

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

No Prob

 

I know it might sound a bit biased based on what I used to do, but if I was going to go out an buy a new processor for sub 15", I would get one of the farmi's without hesitating. A few subtle differences compared to other similar sized machines in the same price bracket but so easy to use and seriously fast. Takes bendy wood well too as they have a massive throat width.

 

If you get chance, get a go on one and I'd be very surprised if you didn't get on with it.

 

Taking bendy wood is a sure bonus. Love the powered feed, you can drop rings in easily, the whole thing looks compact compared to say a HP 1x37. Looked at BGU as good price with no conveyor but is saw and farmi just seems nicer and ticks all the boxes.

[arbwork]

Got mine done by a guy in Bozeat Northants including 2 x 250mm blades for about £25 + VAT. I suppose you would have to add carriage both ways to Norfolk though.

 

A

 

Contact Us Top man I use him for circular and big bandsaw blades , can repair almost anything! As well as sharpen & set to very high standards

[A Townsend]

Hi,

 

It cost me something ridiculous like 16+ the dreaded to get 2 tips and sharpen. If youre looking into mainly softies then i would say the hakki, palax type of thing suitable but if its hard wood you want to deal with then id go posche or bindi as the splitting gear and general build quality seems better. Of course it all comes with cost. If you've any sort of crap in the stack which is pretty much inevitable with firewood then a tct will put up with a hell of a lot more abuse than a chainsaw will and you may curse sharpening every 5 mins. 6 and two 3's really in the end. You pay your money and take a chance. Its all great in the right place with the right timber.

 

Hope you find the right machine for your needs.

 

Andrew

[posch jon]

very little maintenance with CS TCT, you can go through dirty wood with out a problem, a big cost now is chainsaw oil, if you are proccessing alot then you will get through some oil on a chainswa machine. All depends on budget.............