Husq XP Saw = XP Oil mix?

[raafbeard]

Shall we say I had an unfortunate incident which resulted in a siezed 372. (14 months old with very infrequent but heavy use)

 

Speaking to a Dealer (chainsaw) yesterday I was told that newer XP saws should really be run on XP oil mix only as other brands (Stihl) are not sufficient

to lubricate the saw properly - due to higher working rpm.

 

Anybody got an comments on this? Or maybe this will prevent someone else ruining a saw. I know that I would only use XP oil from now on as I cannot run the risk of further seizures.

 

I was also told that pattern parts are not worth the effort I am inclined to agree that most of them proberly are...but if anyone knows of bulletproof pattern parts I am all ears.

 

Thanks

[Stubby]

Shall we say I had an unfortunate incident which resulted in a siezed 372. (14 months old with very infrequent but heavy use)

 

Speaking to a Dealer (chainsaw) yesterday I was told that newer XP saws should really be run on XP oil mix only as other brands (Stihl) are not sufficient

to lubricate the saw properly - due to higher working rpm.

 

Anybody got an comments on this? Or maybe this will prevent someone else ruining a saw. I know that I would only use XP oil from now on as I cannot run the risk of further seizures.

 

I was also told that pattern parts are not worth the effort I am inclined to agree that most of them proberly are...but if anyone knows of bulletproof pattern parts I am all ears.

 

Thanks

Hi . Sorry to heasr you have had a miss- hap . I run all my XP saws on my dealers own brand of 2 stroke oil and never had any problems . This includes a 372 such as yours . I could be wrong here but I think it is a Marketing ploy . You should use a good quality oil and mix it correctly . I would think it more likely you have had an air leak some were and it has run lean ? Spud will be along to advise on the decent aftermarket parts and not so good ones When he reads this I am sure. He likes to salvage the oem pot if at all possible and use a quality piston such as Metior I think .

[spudulike]

Andy has written my normal method, I always try to salvage the original cylinder and have done some really nasty looking ones - look at the what's om my bench thread.

 

Pistons - Meteor are damn good and Italian produced.

 

The oil thing, my 346 runs at around 14600rpm on stihl HP so it is rowlocks.

[GardenKit]

Not trying to push Aspen here, but all the Husqvarna books I have seen so far reccomend the use of Aspen fuel.

Now Aspen is premixed with Aspens own 2 stroke oil, not XP, so this would suggest that XP is not needed when using petrol.

I guess the issue is more that an oil of equivalent grade to XP (jaso FD) should be used, rather than some cheap non branded oil.

[Chris Sheppard]

Our Husky delaer stocks various 2 stroke oils and has never pushed any particular oil. He reckons he sells more Oregon to pros than owt else.

 

As far as I can remember I've never used anything other than Oregon over the last 12 years and have been OK so far.

 

Do the newer saws really rev that much higher?

[blazer]

I run mine on the normal Stihl mix with no probs, but after buying a 'tiny tacho' I realized after setting my saws down a bit, that most of the saws I hear mainly 200T are over revving say 15+k (now I know what 14.5k should sound like) and they are doing fine.

 

I did meet one guy who have x3 saws seize up and claimed 'it can't be me' but I spotted him filling up with neat fuel and adding a bit of 2T.

 

When you say infrequent, that may be a clue to your probs:sneaky2: Fuel separating etc.

 

I run an old 266XP that runs hard at time on 50:1 Stihl no probs

[spudulike]

Normal reasons for saws seizing are: -

 

1) Old fuel mix being used - the petrol destroys the oil properties after being mixed for a period of time. Leaving a saw on the shelf for three months fueled and then doing big long cuts will kill a saw

 

2) Air leaks - these have the effect of leaning the mix down and causing over revving at the top end and a wandering or high idle speed.

 

3) Carb H setting being too lean, for those that don't know, the carb H setting is a fuel based rev limiter, set it too lean, the saw revs too fast and it will overheat and seize

 

Very generally, most of what I see is old mix and bad carb settings killing saws.

 

Aspen is a good solution but so is using fresh mix with a good quality oil and emptying old mix in to your lawnmower etc

[raafbeard]

Thanks for the replies. I was a little surprised to hear that only XP oil was suitable as have not heard of anyone running different mixes for different saws.

 

Think I have to assume that I messed up - and launching my saw into some long carving cuts (albeit warmed up) has done the damage...stupid carving!

[Stubby]

Thanks for the replies. I was a little surprised to hear that only XP oil was suitable as have not heard of anyone running different mixes for different saws.

 

Think I have to assume that I messed up - and launching my saw into some long carving cuts (albeit warmed up) has done the damage...stupid carving!

 

I don't think it would have been working your saw hard from the off caused the problem .There will be some other factor like an air leak , carb settings wrong or wrong mix ratio .

[raafbeard]

Husqvarna have looked at the saw and they are blaming the fuel.

 

I didn't think I had left it that long.

 

What are peoples views on reasonable shelf life for mixed fuel??