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Beginners guide to rigging.......


Adam Bourne
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I take it you would be able to pull in this slack on a stine rc3001 even though the bollard is fixt and will not rotate like the grcs? Almost sorry this small point is taking up so much space on an excellent thred.

For a good explaining of mack addvantage check out taylor hammals vids on utube sorry not sure how to do a link for you, he is the american bloke who did the pully saver etc vids if some1 wants to look it up

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I expect your winch drum is polished to a high sheen by now, but the ones I have used have been really rough textured and grabby, and make it hard to let the section run.

 

If you switch to the fixed bollard for smooth lowering then you lose the ratcheting action.

 

Yes it's VERY smooth now. We rarely ever take the fixed bollard, I would only use it with the 19mm for proper big stuff. The winch unit will handle everything and you have it there for the times when you didn't know you were going to need it.

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Ah well will just have to give it a go when it turns up, just hoping it will be easier for inexperienced groundsmen to use than a flying capstone.

Good communications between tree and ground is the key to any rigging job in my experience and tailoring your methods to suit who you are working with.

And as said before tie, check, check again then and only then cut as I know how much it hurts to have a miss alined rope running across your leg with 50 kg + of pine on the end.

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