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Posted

Once you have sorted the assembly of the clutch components the simple way to tighten it is to run the saw up and snap the chain break on .

Posted
As Skyhuck says, the oil pump needs to line up with the spur, if not when you tighten it up it will bind up.

 

Tip, after fitting correctly check its all free. Do not run up the saw without the bar and chain on. The clutch self tightens under load, but can loosen under overrun (when throttling down) if it has not fully tightened. The drum could spin off at 200 mph (guess) and hit the workshop wall before getting lost in the rubbish under the bench.

 

The bit about meshing the spur part of the clutch drum is spot on and an easy mistake to make.

 

Of course I have never had a sprocket explode necessitating an hours search with a metal detector to find the bits 30' away or had them spin down the drive at 60mph and bury themselves in the shrubs:blushing:

 

I would say you only do it once but would be lying:001_rolleyes::lol:

Posted

Only once did I run a saw up with the clutch on, but not the drum. That was scary ( and it was a long, long time ago) Luckily the bits missed me, but a light fitting and a window did not fare so well.:thumbdown:

Posted
Only once did I run a saw up with the clutch on, but not the drum. That was scary ( and it was a long, long time ago) Luckily the bits missed me, but a light fitting and a window did not fare so well.:thumbdown:

 

Yes, when they go, they really do go so anybody reading this - don't run up a saw without a bar and chain when the clutch has been off - thats if you value your good looks, windows and light fittings:lol:

Posted
Yes, when they go, they really do go so anybody reading this - don't run up a saw without a bar and chain when the clutch has been off - thats if you value your good looks, windows and light fittings:lol:

 

totally agree but only the side plate needed

p.s Just one for me but can remember it well:blushing:

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