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Posted

Bill I'm so glad you've spent time and effort on this old saw and hope you have it running perfect. Glad its no longer sitting in my shed collecting dust and going to waste!! :-) James 

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Posted
Bill I'm so glad you've spent time and effort on this old saw and hope you have it running perfect. Glad its no longer sitting in my shed collecting dust and going to waste!! :-) James 
Thanks James, had it out for a few tanks last week, went very well until I refilled it and refused to start! More investigation required but expect carb issue as it would fire and run for a short time but die when revved. Have ordered an oem carb kit and some other bits......will update
  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Right so have vac and pressure tested this saw, fitted a new oem carb kit and done a thorough carb clean. Fitted all new gaskets and carb boot and fuel line ( one of the ones with with moulded in tapered bit....how is that supposed to go?).

Mostly the saw is fine, revs and cuts well but is occasionally a rigjt bellend to start. Wants full choke then fires and cuts out won't rev.

If anyone knows these saws well and can point me in the rigjt direction of be well pleased. Ta

Posted
1 hour ago, billpierce said:

Right so have vac and pressure tested this saw, fitted a new oem carb kit and done a thorough carb clean. Fitted all new gaskets and carb boot and fuel line ( one of the ones with with moulded in tapered bit....how is that supposed to go?).

Mostly the saw is fine, revs and cuts well but is occasionally a rigjt bellend to start. Wants full choke then fires and cuts out won't rev.

If anyone knows these saws well and can point me in the rigjt direction of be well pleased. Ta

Re check gap on spark unit and fly wheel . I had one ( years ago ) and it was that .

Posted
2 hours ago, billpierce said:

Right so have vac and pressure tested this saw, fitted a new oem carb kit and done a thorough carb clean. Fitted all new gaskets and carb boot and fuel line ( one of the ones with with moulded in tapered bit....how is that supposed to go?).

Mostly the saw is fine, revs and cuts well but is occasionally a rigjt bellend to start. Wants full choke then fires and cuts out won't rev.

If anyone knows these saws well and can point me in the rigjt direction of be well pleased. Ta

A thought....If your predominantly getting the issue when the saw is hot or on the way down from hot ....has your saw got the carb screws with the plastic looking tube round them ? it was a Husq fix for heat trans from the cylinder into the carb mount and carb its self. 

Posted
A thought....If your predominantly getting the issue when the saw is hot or on the way down from hot ....has your saw got the carb screws with the plastic looking tube round them ? it was a Husq fix for heat trans from the cylinder into the carb mount and carb its self. 
Aye there is a sort of plastic tube that pushes on over the h and l screws. What s it for?
Posted
11 minutes ago, billpierce said:
2 hours ago, Sawchip said:
A thought....If your predominantly getting the issue when the saw is hot or on the way down from hot ....has your saw got the carb screws with the plastic looking tube round them ? it was a Husq fix for heat trans from the cylinder into the carb mount and carb its self. 

Aye there is a sort of plastic tube that pushes on over the h and l screws. What s it for?

Not that bit Bill..thats just the screwdriver guide when adjusting the carb through the top cover. 

Im talking about the 2 long screws that hold the carb to the intake block. The improved ones had a thermal cover on them to help with the situation of heat trans causing some starting issues when hot. 

Posted
Not that bit Bill..thats just the screwdriver guide when adjusting the carb through the top cover. 
Im talking about the 2 long screws that hold the carb to the intake block. The improved ones had a thermal cover on them to help with the situation of heat trans causing some starting issues when hot. 
I see. The carb bolts had a rubber tube fitted. Sadly perhaps not the issue....thanks anyway handy tip
Posted

Poor starting can be the L screw too weak and worth checking the metering arm height as sometimes the diaphragms settle and leave the needle just on the verge of opening when it should be firmly closed. Guess the fuel line and filter are fresh.......not read the complete thread!

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