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ms261 needle bearing/play in drive sprocket, common problem??


jnoon
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Ive had a similar issue with my 2015 MS362. Started to make a "tinny" rattle on idle. On taking the clutch apart noticed the bearing face on the inside of the clutch drum was actually breaking up In turn causing the roller bearing to pickup metal flakes. Being 2 months from new I was not best pleased considering I'm meticulous with weekly clean and lubrication. FR jones stood by it and exchanged the clutch drum and needle roller bearing free of charge as it was put down to a defective part.

 

Have heard the 261's are partial to wearing needle cage bearings. For what the bearings cost and the ease of replacement (remember the oil pump drive engagement on clutch drum, aslong as your not heavy handed you can't mount the drum assembly without it being engaged anyhow) id treat it as a service item every 6-12 months on a heavily used saw.

 

I've considered converting to the metal cage needle bearings but I was told the plastic is used due to better heat management..... if something else went wrong I'd potentially loose the warranty using aftermarket parts.

 

 

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I've considered converting to the metal cage needle bearings but I was told the plastic is used due to better heat management..... if something else went wrong I'd potentially loose the warranty using aftermarket parts.

 

 

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At the risk of being sued I would say that is claptrap ! Some people on here have fitted a metal cage and its been fine . I have some older Husqvarnas with metal cage bearings and they are the originals , never been changed . Greased through the crank crank shaft end hole once in a blue moon .

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That's a fair comment, It's probably worth considering swapping once the warranty is expired but until then I'll continue on the plastic for peace of mind.

 

Your call obviously but , if I wanted " peace of mind ", I would fit a metal cage ! :biggrin:

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I have seen 2 MS261's with damaged cranks , cranks were visibly worn down where the bearing ran & drum not running oil pumps due to excessive slack , new drum and bearing only a temporary cure as wear excessive.

One repaired under warranty with new crank and components , one scrapped and replaced with different saw , just had one in this week that won't idle so will be looking @ clutch area firstly knowing what these saws are like

 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

I heard today from a chainsaw repairer that a stihl chap said during manufacture the hole for the crankcase bearing was not staying completely round. This made the bearing run out of true, causing wear in the needle bearing, clutch drum, crankshaft and oiler.

They've figured it out now. Took them long enough....

 

 

http://www.cormacktreecare.co.uk

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I heard today from a chainsaw repairer that a stihl chap said during manufacture the hole for the crankcase bearing was not staying completely round. This made the bearing run out of true, causing wear in the needle bearing, clutch drum, crankshaft and oiler.

They've figured it out now. Took them long enough....

 

 

Tree Surgeon - Woking | Cormack Tree Care Ltd

 

I heard that about a year ago ....

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