felling cuts

[Ben]

I often kneel down, better to have damp knees than a sore back

 

[Littletree]

Here's a Split level cut from when I did my CS31 refresher training.

 

Very nice cut to I am going to keep working and working on mne as want to get them realy good . Is that a scotch pine ?. one of the sites where I go its all

pines really nice to fell just lush down in seconds and not to much snedding.

lovley cross cutting .

 

Eastwater:biggrin:

[Husky D]

I have just done my felling training and we were taught the split level , dogs tooth and standard stright fell. we were also shown a letter box cut just for reference sake . We were taught to cut very very low to the ground but I personal preference I like cutting just above the butts much eaiser on the back .

 

Eastwater.

 

Hi Eastwater. When you say you were shown letterbox for reference i take it that you didn't practice it? How did you get shown to do hung up tree's then just by an 80% cut from the side? Not a critisism on your part just surprised if you were never made too or had the opportunity to attempt it during training at all.

[felixthelogchopper]

Had to actually do a letterbox cut as part of the CS31 assessment just recently.

[BUTNUTS]

I used a split level today on a 60 foot confifer went wrong the bloody thing was so top heavy just wouldnt go the way i wanted it to go

[john dawson]

thats inexperience for ya!

its not the balls up thats the problem - its "why did it go wrong and what will you do better next time?"

 

split levels on larger trees require wedges instead of levers.

 

ok peeps, by the book - gob is between45-75o on the angle, down to a fith to a quarter of the trees dia, and meet up with a level bottom cut to match.

back cut goes in about an inch higher (max) than bottom cut, to meet up with back of gob cut, and leave about 10% of the trees dia as a level hinge, parrellell with gob cut.

if the tree doesnt fall, remove saw, switch off, place in a safe place, and use a lever to move the tree over with, once falling leg it!!!!!

 

its more important to fell as close to ground as poss, more from a safety point of veiw, as you will have more control of the tree. felling a few inches higher than ground and cutting stump to a level flush is fine.

lecture over. tea break?

[broadsword]

felling cut dimensions/requirements for cs 31 [small trees]. no higher than 6'' from ground level if possible to maximise quality timber and aid in leverage of the tree. face/sink cut: 45degree angled cut to form top of sink, horizontal cut to remove a sink of approx one fith to quater of the overall diameter of the tree. if you balls it up you can remove up to a quater but try not to remove more or you could compromise the balance/leverage of the tree.

 

felling cut: level or just above the base of the sink cut but no higher than 2.5 cm as that can allow the tree to tear up the grain and defeats the object of the hinge [to give a controlled fell in the direction of travel]. hinge should be roughly ten per cent of the overall diameter of the tree all the way across the stump [not tapered].

 

these are the basic guides that i teach for a basic straight fell.

 

split level: to fell a SMALL tree with a SLIGHT lean in the wrong direction against the lean using a lever or wedge.

 

dog tooth/holding cut: to fell a HEAVILY LEANING tree of ANY diameter in the direction of the lean to avoid barbers chair/ spliting up the grain.

 

danish pie cut: can be used for either of the above situations and on a tree of any diameter. i teach this if we get time on a five day course which is rare. great and versatile cut tho.

 

these are all forestry techniques and as arborists tend to use rigging equipment/ropes etc to remove trees in tight situations sometimes they get forgotten about which is a shame as theres an art to getting them all right.

[tractorboy1]

Am I thick whats a danish pie cut?

[john dawson]

its a good cut, i prefer mine wiv custard!!

[john dawson]

felling cut dimensions/requirements for cs 31 [small trees]. no higher than 6'' from ground level if possible to maximise quality timber and aid in leverage of the tree. face/sink cut: 45degree angled cut to form top of sink, horizontal cut to remove a sink of approx one fith to quater of the overall diameter of the tree. if you balls it up you can remove up to a quater but try not to remove more or you could compromise the balance/leverage of the tree.

 

felling cut: level or just above the base of the sink cut but no higher than 2.5 cm as that can allow the tree to tear up the grain and defeats the object of the hinge [to give a controlled fell in the direction of travel]. hinge should be roughly ten per cent of the overall diameter of the tree all the way across the stump [not tapered].

 

 

these are all forestry techniques and as arborists tend to use rigging equipment/ropes etc to remove trees in tight situations sometimes they get forgotten about which is a shame as theres an art to getting them all right.

 

im sure i just said that?? is there an echo in here??

 

you are very right about the difference between forest/arb cuts. usualy the arbs are sloppy with cuts cus theres a pullin rope on the tree, if the cuts are cock eyed, itl go wrong!! rope or no rope!!

 

the cs tickets were all designed for forest felling, but the system should be applied on every tree, regardless of situation and location.