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Stump grinder finger teeth


Horatio
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Mark Lowndes at MDH Arb....

 

And Ian, you are a lazy fat begger!

 

Now now peter, sticks and stoned might break my bones but broken ribs always hurt!!!!:001_tt2:

 

For those who dont know, pete fell off the crapper and bust 3 ribs!!!!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Hi guys looking for a little help, advice etc.

Have just brought a little Rayco 13 stump grinder from Daniel@Chippertech,

used it a couple of times now and the teeth are getting a tad worn.

Wanted to find out from you guys where you all get your grinder finger teeth from?

Got told by a mate it doesn't matter how expensive they are they are wear the same.

So, I suppose the real question is where can I get cheap grinder finger teeth from and how much do you pay???

 

Cheers Guys, Horatio

 

Hi

That's not true. The grade of carbide varies a lot for a number of reasons and cheap is very rarely the best option. Harder tips have less cobalt and are sometimes cheaper, however they are more likely to chip. Cobalt binds the tip together reducing chipping but cobalt itself is softer. So the key is to have the correct amount of cobalt for a wide range of soil types.

Some manufacturers use recycled carbide which gets contaminated. And there's also the way the tips are brazed on.

Multi-Tip has put a lot of research into this but also into the way teeth actually cut the wood. Angles on the tips, distance between the teeth etc all make a difference. We can supply wheels for most types of stump grinder. Also we can design wheels for 'One Off' machines.

We offer a money back, satisfaction guaranty. Give me a call on 01189401739 if you want to give it a go.

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I use a diamond disk in an angle grinder and to take four pairs off the machine, cleaned, sharpened, and back on in about an hour. Will try Jonsie when their past it!:001_smile:

 

I dont even bother to take mine off the machine .. 8 teeth sharpened in a few minutes.

Just have to be sure all the teeth stick out equal distances.

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That's right. The difference between the leading teeth and the teeth that hit the stump before the leader is critical in the cutting performance. It is similar to that of the rakers on a chainsaw chain. The greater the difference the more aggressive the cut. Until you get to a point when the wheel will keep jamming like a chainsaw that has it's rakers filed down too much. Multi-Tip wheels have this distance pre-set so you can't really get it wrong. Is that advertising??!!

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